Monday, January 30, 2012

Leaving Rio de Janeiro

Prepared January 28 and 30, 2012 South Atlantic Ocean, en route to Jamestown, St. Helena and Walvis Bay, Namibia

In Port and at Sea, January 23, 2012  Rio de Janeiro,  Guanabara Bay, and South Atlantic Ocean:  Finding a Cobbler in Copacabana

Sleeping late to recover from the previous day's urban safari, we fought our way through the masses dissembarking and wandering around lost from another Costa VLHC (VLHC -- Very Large Human Carrier as compared to a VLCC -- Very Large Crude Carrier).  Then, walking quickly and looking straight ahead, we pass through the gauntlet of jewelry salesmen and finally reach the 60-passenger shuttle bus for the one-hour trip from the cruise terminal to the Copacabana section of Rio de Janeiro.

J & E are on a mission.  E's dress shoes had lost their heel caps when she wore them to a formal-night cocktail party and dinner.  So, the heel caps must be replaced at all costs -- including a one-hour bus ride in Rio's Monday morning traffic!  Before we left the ship, we had been given directions by the local on-board travel consultant.  She had telephoned and talked and finally come up with two approximate addresses somewhere in the Copacabana district for cobblers.  The street names and directions were, however, a little vague, or possibly failed to make the transition from Portuguese to English.  Thus, the Monday morning Silversea shuttle bus trip to Copacabana at about 10:00a.

The shuttle bus dropped us in front of the Othon Palace Hotel on Atlantic Avenue across from Copacabana Beach.  Speaking with the bellman, it was determined that there was a shoe repair shop about five blocks away on D. Ferreira Street -- well within walking distance.  So, off we went to the shoe repair shop, which we found with no trouble.  The cobbler was present, and after an interesting, multicultural show-and-tell, the nature of the repair was established (new heel caps), the price (~US$ 15.00), and the time (about two hours).  This took some effort because the cobbler was Italian, speaking only Italian and Portuguese, and we spoke neither.  But, with the help of the cobbler's friend, who thought he spoke some English, all was arranged.  It also helped that the shoes in question were Italian made (Ferragamo), and national honor was involved in their repair.

Since we had to wait for the shoes, we decided to walk along Atlantic Avenue (opposite Copacabana Beach) to the Copacabana Palace Hotel for a coffee and some treats.  This was a longer walk than we had anticipated in the hot mid-day sun.  J and E will never learn!   But, the hotel was cool and a good place to wait, over a cappuccino, fruit and breakfast rolls.  The only glitch was that we arrived at the time of a staff changeover, so it took awhile to get waited on and served.  If you want it fast, go to McDonald's!


Copacabana Palace from Atlantic Avenue

To stay in the shade, we walked back along the interior streets and looked at the shops.  Sadly, from the point of the Brazilian economy, nothing was purchased.  Arriving at the shoe repair shop, the shoes were ready.  After inspection and E's declaration that all was correct and in order, the shoes were wrapped in a plastic bag and placed in a book bag for transport back to the ship.


Atlantic Avenue's Wave Design Sidewalk Paving

The next Silversea shuttle bus was not to arrive for about an hour, so we sat in the Othon Palace Hotel's side lobby until it came.  The return bus trip to the Cruise Terminal was only 20 minutes.  On arriving at the terminal, we experienced another example of mass tourism run amok.  But, with the assistance of the ship's crew, we successfully boarded the Silver Whisper in time for our 6:00pm departure from Rio de Janeiro.

We had been moored next to the Brazilian naval piers in Cais do Porto, and on departure, J got to see an old acquaintance:  the Brazilian navy's aircraft carrier (BNS Minas Gerias).  The Minas Gerias had been anchored off Rio, along with the USS Yorktown, when the Yorktown made a port visit to Rio de Janeiro in 1969 at Carnival.   Hopefully, the Minas Gerias, like the Yorktown, is now a naval museum!


BNS Minas Gerais



Brazil's Naval Academy

On the track down Guanabara Bay to the Altantic, we again saw the Petrobas oil production fleet with oil rigs and drilling ships.  After passing through the mouth of the Bay, we entered the Atlantic and set course for St. Helena Island, a five-day cruise to the east northeast.



Goodbye Rio de Janeiro!
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Friday, January 27, 2012

Sailing Down to Rio de Janeiro


Prepared January 26 and 27, 2012 South Atlantic Ocean, en route to Jamestown, St. Helena


At sea, January 21, 2012 South Atlantic Ocean:  Rio Bound

After departing Salvador da Bahia, we turned south by southwest toward Guanabara Bay and Rio de Janeiro.  For us, it was back to the bridge lessons and duplicate bridge play.  Sometimes we think we are improving and then again maybe not!

This evening we had dinner on deck at The Grill Dinner.  This is an interesting experience and has the added advantage that we do not have to wear formal dress.   On being seated, an extremely hot (450 Deg. F), flat stone on a wooden platter is brought to your table and you cook your own meat -- steak, fish, prawns, or lobsters.  This is served with a skewer of vegetables and a baked potato.  Just like Hy's in Honolulu, but you have to cook the meat yourself.  J & E, not being inclined to cook, feared bad results, but the waiters kept everything on track, and we had a wonderful meal with our three other guests.  All this cooking was rewarded by a delicious apple pie a la mode prepared by the pastry chef.


At sea and in port, January 22, 2012  South Atlantic Ocean, Guanabara Bay and Rio de Janerio:  An Urban Safari in Rio

This morning we sailed south southwest in sight of the coast of Brazil.  It made you think of all of the other sailors from the 16th Century until the present who have made this approach to Guanabara Bay.  At about noon, we turned northwest and began our approach to the Bay, with mountains rising out of the sea on both sides of the ship.

Entering Guanabara Bay, the first signs of Brazil's new prosperity are the anchored oil drilling ships and rigs, which are being refitted and repaired near the mouth of the Bay.  Proceeding northwest up the Bay, the southern portions of Rio de Janeiro, Ipanema and Copacabana come into view, as well as Corcovado with the Christ of the Andes Statue.  At a narrow constriction of the Bay, where the mountains extend further into the sea, there are two fortresses that defended Rio de Janeiro from the 17th Century until the 20th Century.  Now, they are museums or tourist cafes.


Fort Guarding Rio de Janeiro


Copacabana Beach and Corcovado from Guanabara Bay


After the forts, the ship turned to port and began its final approach to the cruise ship terminal at Praca Maura.  The heart of Rio comes into view, with scenes of the central part of Rio, including the older quarter of the City and modern high rises of the financial district.  There is little doubt that the physical setting of Rio de Janeiro is spectacular and rivalled by very few cities in the world.

We moored at the Cais do Porto Cruise Terminal directly forward of the Costa Pacifica, a sister ship of the Costa Concordia, which was a bit diconcerting.  As you can imagine, the Pacifica dwarfted the Silver Whisper.  The real problem was trying to get through the cruise terminal with 4,000 plus happy but not very structured Brazilians roaming about.  It was similiar to herding cats!


Cruise Terminal and Costa Pacifica

Finally, escaping the mob of cats in the terminal, we reached the tourist transport area on the shore side of the terminal.  There were 12 passengers who had signed up for a tour of the Botanic Garden and the Tijuca National Park in the mountains above Rio.  We had been advised (warned) that there would be extensive walking and that four-wheeled, jeep-type vehicles would be used in the National Park.  However, what to our amazement greeted us in the terminal parking lot but two army surplus command car type jeeps fitted with two parallel bench seats and completely open to the elements.  (The seats were padded!)  Six of us, plus a guide/minder, were put in each jeep, and off we went for the kamakazi tour of Rio's freeways and streets.


Kamakazi Jeep in Traffic

About 45 minutes later, we arrived dazed and stunned at the Botanic Garden (Jardin Botanico).  Established in 1709 by King Peter, after the Portuguese Royal Family arrived in Rio de Janeiro fleeing from Napoleon.  The garden covers 340 acres and contains more than 5,000 tropical and sub-tropical plants.  Our guide on the two hour walk through the Garden pointed out and discussed etho- and economic botany, concentrating on trees that were important in the history of Brazil.  We also visited the special pavilions containing bromeliads and orchids.


Guide and Map of Botanic Garden


Rubber Trees


Royal Palm Promenade



Lawns and Paths



Pink Torch Ginger




Anyone for Large Helaconia?





Orchids in Orchid House





Close Up of Orchids






Tree Covered in Spanish Moss

It was clear that many of the "Cariocas" who were visiting the Garden were largely drawn there by its park-like nature and the 12 Deg F temperature difference between the Garden and the surrounding city streets.  Although the two hour walk was leisurely and allowed for rest stops, by the time we reached the jeeps for the trip up the mountain to Tijuca Forest, we were ready to sit, even though the seat was a bench in a suicide wagon!


Kamakazi Jeep Going Very Fast

The trip up the mountain was on a narrow, two-lane street.  It was much better looking straight ahead than left or right from the bench, because the latter gave one an immediate view of the impending head-on crash with a car, bus or human!  After 20 minutes of climbing up the mountain, we reached the Vista Chinese, a Chinese-style pavilion built near the top of the mountain.  From the pavilion, we had views of Rio de Janeiro and the surrounding mountains, including Corcovado.


Vista Chinese Pavilion




View from Vista Chinese Pavilion
Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas in Center and
Corcovado on Left


After photo opportunity, it was back down the mountain and a one hour, thrill ride through the steets of Rio at breathtaking speeds, unclocked because the jeep's speedometer was broken.  Arriving back at the Cruise Terminal, we were helped off the jeeps, checked for a heart beat, and escorted back through the terminal and the 4,000 cats of Costa to the ship.

More fun awaited us, however, as the ship had arranged for a local samba school to come aboard and give a performance with live music and dance.  It was one hour of continuous, high energy dancing and music.  There was a samba band, acrobats, dancers, show girls, extraordinary costumes worn in Carnival parades, and participation by passengers and crew.   Although some complained (as our generation is prone to) about the loud music, this is the way it is at Carnival.  We thoroughly enjoyed the performance, but one hour was quite enough!


Carnival Dancer and Show Girl


More Dancers and Carnival Costumed Ladies
Carnival Photos by Norman Rafelson

Finding our way back to the room, dead tired, we dined on pizza and tomato soup in our suite, and were in bed by 9:00pm.  We are definitely night birds!
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Wednesday, January 25, 2012

Tropical Sea Days to Salvador da Bahia



Prepared January 24 and 25, 2012, South Atlantic Ocean en route Jamestown, St. Helena

At Sea in Atlantic Ocean, January 17, 18, & 19, 2012:  Sea Days.

As one might expect, one day at sea becomes much like another.  The 3-day cruise from Belem to Salvador da Bahia along the coast of Brazil was an excellent example of this.  The South Atlantic was running a slight swell (~5 feet), winds were from the southeast at 20 mph, and there were occasional rain squalls.  Not really what you would expect in the doldrums around the equator.

Life on board is also much the same day-to-day.  After meals and sleep, bridge takes up time during the day, and some form of entertainment in the evening.  There are a group of young entertainers on board who give performances every evening after dinner.  Although cruise entertainment is often problematic, the entertainment on board has spanned the range from opera and classical music to jazz and contemporary songs.  So far, the entertainment has been worth staying up to attend!  It starts at 10:15p, long after dark.

One wonderful dining event was a Chinese dinner in the ship's laundry. (The laundry is operated by an entirely Chinese staff, all from the same village in China.)  Four World Cruise couples along with the Captain, the Hotel Director, and the Cruise Director were treated to a multi-course dinner, complete with bao za, kung pao shrimp (not kitty), and other delicacies.  The laundry was decorated in Chinese lanterns, fans, and dragons, and a good time was had by all.  The ship's only Chinese waiter, Dan, discovered (to her delight) that J spoke a little Chinese, so Dan and J spoke Chinese phrases and exchanged New Year's Greetings for the Year of the Dragon.


Chinese Dinner in the Ship's Laundry
Gung He Fat Choi
Photo by Norman Rafelson, Hotel Director


In port, Salvador da Bahia, Brazil,  January 20, 2012:  Visiting Churches, Fearing Lightning.

Salvador da Bahia is one of the oldest cities in Brazil, founded in 1549, and the capital of Brazil until 1763.  The Old City, which is situated on a bluff above the port, is filled with baroque churches.  The churches where built in the 16th and 17th centuries by Roman Catholics and their various religious orders.   The old, upper city has been declared a UNESCO world heritage site and is slowly being rehabilitated both by the government and individual  local owners.


Salvador da Bahia
Lower and Upper City

We departed the ship on a tour bus which took us to the old city above the port area in the lower city.  The two areas are connected by Lecerda's Elevator.  This elevator is named for the engineer that designed and built the original elevator in the late 19th Century.  It has been expanded and rebuilt a number of times and is heavily used for commuting between the lower and the upper city.  Riding the elevator is much quicker and requires much less athletic prowess than climbing the narrow streets and/or innumerable stairs between the port and the old city!


Municipal Square and  Lecerda's Elevator (Upper City Station)

We were deposited in Municipal Square in the upper city to begin our two-hour walking tour.  An impressive 19th Century city hall at one end of the square is offset on one side by a modern (mid-20th Century) municipal office building, likely one of the most out-of-place buildings in Brazil.  At the other end of the square is the religious complex of the Cardinal of Salvador da Bahia.  It includes offices and the Baroque Cathedral.  The Cathedral was originally built by Jesuits in the 16th Century and expropriated by the Cardinal in the 18th Century, when the Jesuits fell from the Holy See's grace.   Although no longer under the Jesuits, the Cathedral's interior reflects in many ways their former presence.


City Hall


Exterior View Cathedral Baroque

After touring the Cathedral's main sanctuary, we visited the vestry, where the regalia of the priests and prelates are still stored in carved, wooden cabinets made in the 17th Century by Portuguese craftsmen, who were sent to Brazil especially to build for the Church.




Interior Views Baroque Cathedral, Salvador da Bahai


Not having been struck down as heretics, we walked across Terreiro de Jesus Square, passing one of a nearly-infinite number of H. Stern jewelry shops and proceeded to the Church of San Francisco with its attached Franciscan Monastery.  The 16th Century church, with its interior nearly completely covered in gold leaf and cedar wood carvings, is Baroque at its most overdone.  However, many of the blue/white tile dioramas illustrate aspects of Christian doctrine that are much more pleasing, as does the painted ceiling.  Salvador de Bahia is reputed to have the largest collection of baroque churches in the world.


Church of San Francisco


Main Altar, Church of San Francisco
Gold Leaf on Cedar Wood Carvings



Interior Detail, Church of San Francisco






Wood Carving Detail
Church of San Francisco


We also walked through the original commercial districts of the old city known as the Pelourinho Dictrict.  Shop houses along the cobbled main street have been restored and converted to art galleries, souvenir shops, and, you guessed it, jewelry shops.  Soon, every rock in Brazil will have been sold!


Street Scene, Upper (Old) City
Salvador da Bahia

After seeing the historic upper city, we boarded the air conditioned bus to revive and drive through the modern sections of Bahia to reach the Costa Pinto Museum.  This museum is located in the mansion of a sugar baron family, and many of its collections of decorative art were most likely provided by the family.   This is what you do when nobody in the family wants the stuff!  Sadly, photographs were not allowed, so you will miss the opportunity of seeing what the rich do in lieu of a yard sale.

After viewing way too many pieces of silver and other furnishings, it was back to the bus and a drive along the coast past the San Antonio Fortress and its lighthouse that mark the entrance to All Saints Bay (Baia de Todo os Santos).  Those early Portuguese and Spanish didn't take any chances with God!


San Antonio Fortress and Lighthouse
Land Side View


San Antonio Fortress and Lighthouse
View from All Saints Bay


Finally, it was back to the ship, a late lunch, and a long nap before sailing away and turning south to Rio de Janeiro.  So, if this account of our adventures in Salvador da Bahia is too short -- Blame it on Rio!

Wednesday, January 18, 2012

Running South by East to the Mouth of the Amazon

Prepared Tuesday, January 17, 2012 at sea en route to Salvador de Bahia, Brazil:  Posted January 18, 2012

At Sea in Atlantic Ocean, January 13, 14 and 15, 2012:  Very Busy -- Resting!

With three consecutive sea days, the image of restful cruising and laying about in warm sun south of the Tropic of Cancer comes to mind.  Maybe so in the 1930s and the days of the great ocean liners.  Today, cruise ship staffs work on the theory that a resting body is an unhappy body, so the "plan of the day" is always filled with ACTIVITIES.  There are two old sayings that come to mind -- "Busy hands are happy hands" and/or "No rest for the wicked!"
The M/V Silver Whisper
Our Current Abode

Aside from eating, for J & E bridge lessons and play are main on board activities.  In no small degree, our improved bridge play is because of the lessons of the Sprungs, the bridge instructors.  This may prove that skilled teachers can make a silk purse from whatever.  Over the three day period, J & E have risen to the highest level of play in recent memory.  It may not last, but currently we are not the anchor pair at the bottom of the score list!

On the last sea day before making port at Belem, another sacred at sea ritual was celebrated -- the crossing of the Equator.  For those of you who are strick interpreters of latitude, the celebration was a bit early, as the Silver Whisper had not crossed over into the Southern Hemisphere.  However, King Neptune and his jolly band of Shellbacks may have had a full calendar, what with all the cruise ships headed for Summer in the Southern Hemisphere.  After King Neptune and his henchmen appeared on the pool deck, all of the pollywogs (non-Equator crossers) were invited to attend their induction into the ancient Order of Shellbacks.  In the past, with the exception of cruise ships and aircraft, induction into the Order incurred a certain amount of (can we say) "hazing."  But, in the world of cruising, where every passenger comes with a lawyer attached, all of the high-jinx are limited to the ship's company and some willing volunteer passenger pollywogs.  The most rigorous form of horse play ends up being thrown into the swimming pool or smeared with some food stuffs.

At this point, J is tempted to reminisce about his induction into the Order on board the USS Yorktown in 1969, but that heart-wrenching tale of inhumane treatment at the hands of the Yorktown's shellbacks will not be told.  Suffice it to say that all the Yorktown former pollywogs were eating standing up for several days after the crossing!  It was indeed a memorable ceremony.

In the end, all the Silver Whisper passengers received a certificate of crossing to add to their growing collection of cruise memorabilia.


Eloise is a Certified Member of
the Loyal Order of Shellbacks


Anchored  Para River, Off Belem, Brazil, January 16, 2012 -- Can We Go Back To The Ship Now?

The Silver Whisper anchored in the Para River, part of the Amazon River delta, at 7:30am local time.  The weather was wet and humid -- surprise, surprise.  This is the Amazon basin after all.  Belem could be seen across the river in the mist and fog.

After a number of delays, relating to a local tender (it was claimed that our on-board tenders were "unsafe" in the river's current), we embarked on a local tender that was the sister ship of the African Queen.  It leaked rain from the upper deck, while the plastic canvas side curtains, intended to keep the rain off the passengers, collected the rain and, with each gust of wind or movement of the hull, sprayed it on the passengers!  Welcome to the wet tropics!  We embarked and clung to our plastic VIP chairs, rented especially for the tourist passengers, and made the 30 minute river crossing to the Doca do Para where we disembarked.

Approaching Belem on the African Queen

It was onto the dreaded tour bus for a short trip to the "Teatro da Paz" opera house built in 1878 at the height of the rubber boom.  The opera house was remodeled in the early 1900s and completely restored in 2002.  The building and its interior are excellent examples of a 19th Century opera house.


Teatro da Paz -- Exterior View


Teatro da Paz -- Interior View

After the opera house, we were herded back onto the bus for a trip through the narrow, congested streets of Belem's old quarter (Cidade Velha) to the oddly-named Jewellery Hub, which is the restored Sao Jose Liberto (originally a Fransiscan Monastery), which became a notorious prison and is now a minerology/gems museum.  It is a first rate restoration.  The museum, which was opened especially for us as it is normally closed on Monday, had an excellent and well-explained collection of local (Brazilian) gems and minerals as well as a small number of anthropological artifacts.  Luckily, the jewelry stores (which turned restoration into tourist trap) were closed!

After our gems and prison lecture, it was back on the bus and on to the Forte do Presepio.  It is the original site of settlement in Belem and has been the major fort protecting Belem's seaward approaches since the 1600s.  The fort is now a park, and the orginal building contains the Museum of Encontro.  This museum traces human occupancy of the Upper Amazon and displays many archeological findings from the local area.


Forte do Presepio - Original Gate


Forte do Presepio - Fortifications

After the fort, the last stop was the former Governor's Palace, which is now a city/state museum.  The Palace, which was originally constructed in 1879, was intended at that time to be a residence for the Portuguese royal family.  This never came about, and the structure remained the Governor's Palace until the 1990s, when it was restored and converted to a museum.  This is a very large structure with very little in it.  There are some interesting historical displays discussing local history and culture.  But, most of the rooms are largely empty with a few pieces of eclectic 19th and early 20th Century furnishings.  We were not overly impressed!



Exterior of the Governor's Palace in Two Frames
No Photos Allowed Inside


The Clock Tower in the Rain
Taken Through Tinted Bus Window!

Back on the bus, back to the pier, and stop.  The African Queen, our local tender, was nowhere to be seen, so as we say in Hawaii -- "TRY WAIT."  However, the wait was not without entertainment.  The Brazilian jewellers descended en masse on us with little promotional items and a pitch about visiting their establishments when we arrive in Rio.  Fat chance, with gold at US$1,500+ per ounce.  By the time the assault of the jewellry higglers was over, the afternoon rain squalls began with rain and wind.  The squalls made for an exciting transfer back to the Silver Whisper with rain and spray coming in through the canvas curtains.  There was even a piranha or two flopping about on deck.  (Not true, but J had to get in a piranha since we were on the Amazon!).

Transfer from the tender to the ship was the most exciting event of the day.  Due to wave action on the river, it was difficult to keep the tender alongside the Silver Whisper.  Waves and spray were splashing into the narrow space between the African Queen and the disembarkation hatch in the ship's side.  This made for a wet and slippery transfer, that required more sea legs than many of the passengers were willing to exhibit.  However, two hardies on the tender and two on the ship solved the problem by picking up the reluctant and bodily lifting them across to the ship, where passengers were handed off to two more hardy sailors.  At worst, only a few egos were bruised and clothes were dampened!

Once back on board, there was a rush for the restaurant so that a late lunch (2:10pm) could be eaten.   The passengers' motto seems to be -- Never miss a meal.

Sunday, January 15, 2012

Islands in the Stream - Dominica and Barbados

Prepared Sunday, January 15, 2012 at sea enroute to Belem, Brazil:  Posted January 15, 2012

Roseau, Dominica; Wednesday, January 11, 2012 -- The Search for the Botanical Gardens.

After Road Town, Roseau (the capital and port for Dominica) was in many ways a pleasant surprise.  The city retains many of its pretourist  Caribbean aspects in its colorful buildings and, regretfully, in its narrow and sans-sidewalks streets.



Roseau at Sunset

Since we arrived in Roseau at noon, we decided to walk to the Botanical Gardens, which according to everyone we spoke to was "very close by" or "not far."  These terms are relative, and, in the hot mid-day Caribbean sun, "not far" turned into a "very great distance."   After about a 30 minute walk, we may have reached the Botanical Garden or we may have missed it altogether.  J and E are in some disagreement on this point!  However, we did find a public park with lawns and trees, which may have been part of the Botanical Garden or maybe Windsor Park.


Tree in Botanical Gardens? - Note: Crushed School Bus
The Result of a Hurricane

Whichever it was, by the time we reached this open space, we had had enough exploring on foot in the afternoon sun and started back to the ship through the town -- dodging traffic as the sidewalks and road mergered on a number of occasions.


Shop Houses with Sidewalk and Street


19th Century Public Well

By early evening we were underway for Bridgetown, Barbados.  Having seen Roseau on foot and maybe the Botanical Gardens or maybe not!

Bridgetown, Barbados, Thursday, January 12, 2012 -- Polo Anyone?

We tied up at Bridgetown Cruise Terminal (formerly part of the sugar shipping facility) early on the morning of January 12th.  The cruise terminal building, which all arriving and departing cruise passengers must pass through to clear Customs and Immigration, is really a large shopping mail (tourist trap).  For the shopping-oriented tourist, there is no reason to ever leave the terminal.  J & E immediately left and took a taxi to Garrison Savannah, where J's old office at the Town Planning Department was located and where the Barbados Museum and Historical Society's Galleries are inside the Garrison's former stockade (prison).


Barbados Museum

The museum has a series of galleries which provide exhibits of Barbados' natural and social history, decorative and fine arts as well as African History and the Military History of Barbados.   It provides a very good introduction to most aspects of Barbados' natural and human evironments.  Photography is not allowed in the gallery; however, it is allowed in the outdoor areas where larger pieces of local history are displayed, including the 17th Century water purification system.  The system worked by filtering water through three large vessels made of limestone.  Water is poured into the top vessel and filters through to the bottom vessel, where it is stored until needed.


Early Barbados Water Purification System


After an hour touring the museum and half an hour waiting for our reserved, no-show taxi, we returned by another taxi to the cruise terminal.  At the terminal, the Silver Whisper had been joined by a large Princess (4,000+ victims) cruise ship, so the terminal was like being in the middle of an attack by Vandals!  Back on the ship, we had lunch and prepared for the big event -- the polo match.

In Barbados, because of its long association with the British Empire and the British military, a great deal of polo is played.  As a "treat" for the world cruise guests,  we were taken to the specially-arranged polo matches at the Apes Hill Polo Club.  Having only seen polo in Hawaii at the rather primitive venues on Hawaii and Oahu, we were not prepared for the grand nature of both for the course and the club house.


Polo Grounds and Club House

As well as watching the polo - men on horses taking turns hitting a small white ball up and down the course with a mallett - there were canapes and libations for those so inclined.  All-in-all, a good time was had by all, although we don't think any great understanding of the sport was attained by most of us.


Men and Women on Horses Attacking a Small Ball, i.e., Polo


The Winners and Losers or Maybe the Losers and Winners

As proof that J & E did, in fact, attend the match, the following photo (taken by the Silver Whisper's Hotel Director) is included:  However, don't ask us who won or lost - not a clue!


At the Polo Match (What Happened?)

After watching two complete matches with commentary, we were treated to a concert by the Royal Barbados Police Band and more food and beverages (remember Rum Punch is very lethal in quantities).  We were then loaded onto buses for the 30 minute trip back to the ship, and dinner on board.  As if we needed more food!


Royal Barbados Police Band