Sailing Down to Rio de Janeiro

Prepared January 26 and 27, 2012 South Atlantic Ocean, en route to Jamestown, St. Helena

At sea, January 21, 2012 South Atlantic Ocean:  Rio Bound

After departing Salvador da Bahia, we turned south by southwest toward Guanabara Bay and Rio de Janeiro.  For us, it was back to the bridge lessons and duplicate bridge play.  Sometimes we think we are improving and then again maybe not!

This evening we had dinner on deck at The Grill Dinner.  This is an interesting experience and has the added advantage that we do not have to wear formal dress.   On being seated, an extremely hot (450 Deg. F), flat stone on a wooden platter is brought to your table and you cook your own meat -- steak, fish, prawns, or lobsters.  This is served with a skewer of vegetables and a baked potato.  Just like Hy's in Honolulu, but you have to cook the meat yourself.  J & E, not being inclined to cook, feared bad results, but the waiters kept everything on track, and we had a wonderful meal with our three other guests.  All this cooking was rewarded by a delicious apple pie a la mode prepared by the pastry chef.

At sea and in port, January 22, 2012  South Atlantic Ocean, Guanabara Bay and Rio de Janerio:  An Urban Safari in Rio

This morning we sailed south southwest in sight of the coast of Brazil.  It made you think of all of the other sailors from the 16th Century until the present who have made this approach to Guanabara Bay.  At about noon, we turned northwest and began our approach to the Bay, with mountains rising out of the sea on both sides of the ship.

Entering Guanabara Bay, the first signs of Brazil's new prosperity are the anchored oil drilling ships and rigs, which are being refitted and repaired near the mouth of the Bay.  Proceeding northwest up the Bay, the southern portions of Rio de Janeiro, Ipanema and Copacabana come into view, as well as Corcovado with the Christ of the Andes Statue.  At a narrow constriction of the Bay, where the mountains extend further into the sea, there are two fortresses that defended Rio de Janeiro from the 17th Century until the 20th Century.  Now, they are museums or tourist cafes.

Fort Guarding Rio de Janeiro

Copacabana Beach and Corcovado from Guanabara Bay

After the forts, the ship turned to port and began its final approach to the cruise ship terminal at Praca Maura.  The heart of Rio comes into view, with scenes of the central part of Rio, including the older quarter of the City and modern high rises of the financial district.  There is little doubt that the physical setting of Rio de Janeiro is spectacular and rivalled by very few cities in the world.

We moored at the Cais do Porto Cruise Terminal directly forward of the Costa Pacifica, a sister ship of the Costa Concordia, which was a bit diconcerting.  As you can imagine, the Pacifica dwarfted the Silver Whisper.  The real problem was trying to get through the cruise terminal with 4,000 plus happy but not very structured Brazilians roaming about.  It was similiar to herding cats!

Cruise Terminal and Costa Pacifica

Finally, escaping the mob of cats in the terminal, we reached the tourist transport area on the shore side of the terminal.  There were 12 passengers who had signed up for a tour of the Botanic Garden and the Tijuca National Park in the mountains above Rio.  We had been advised (warned) that there would be extensive walking and that four-wheeled, jeep-type vehicles would be used in the National Park.  However, what to our amazement greeted us in the terminal parking lot but two army surplus command car type jeeps fitted with two parallel bench seats and completely open to the elements.  (The seats were padded!)  Six of us, plus a guide/minder, were put in each jeep, and off we went for the kamakazi tour of Rio's freeways and streets.

Kamakazi Jeep in Traffic

About 45 minutes later, we arrived dazed and stunned at the Botanic Garden (Jardin Botanico).  Established in 1709 by King Peter, after the Portuguese Royal Family arrived in Rio de Janeiro fleeing from Napoleon.  The garden covers 340 acres and contains more than 5,000 tropical and sub-tropical plants.  Our guide on the two hour walk through the Garden pointed out and discussed etho- and economic botany, concentrating on trees that were important in the history of Brazil.  We also visited the special pavilions containing bromeliads and orchids.

Guide and Map of Botanic Garden

Rubber Trees

Royal Palm Promenade

Lawns and Paths

Pink Torch Ginger

Anyone for Large Helaconia?





Orchids in Orchid House





Close Up of Orchids






Tree Covered in Spanish Moss

It was clear that many of the "Cariocas" who were visiting the Garden were largely drawn there by its park-like nature and the 12 Deg F temperature difference between the Garden and the surrounding city streets.  Although the two hour walk was leisurely and allowed for rest stops, by the time we reached the jeeps for the trip up the mountain to Tijuca Forest, we were ready to sit, even though the seat was a bench in a suicide wagon!

Kamakazi Jeep Going Very Fast

The trip up the mountain was on a narrow, two-lane street.  It was much better looking straight ahead than left or right from the bench, because the latter gave one an immediate view of the impending head-on crash with a car, bus or human!  After 20 minutes of climbing up the mountain, we reached the Vista Chinese, a Chinese-style pavilion built near the top of the mountain.  From the pavilion, we had views of Rio de Janeiro and the surrounding mountains, including Corcovado.

Vista Chinese Pavilion

View from Vista Chinese Pavilion
Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas in Center and
Corcovado on Left

After photo opportunity, it was back down the mountain and a one hour, thrill ride through the steets of Rio at breathtaking speeds, unclocked because the jeep's speedometer was broken.  Arriving back at the Cruise Terminal, we were helped off the jeeps, checked for a heart beat, and escorted back through the terminal and the 4,000 cats of Costa to the ship.

More fun awaited us, however, as the ship had arranged for a local samba school to come aboard and give a performance with live music and dance.  It was one hour of continuous, high energy dancing and music.  There was a samba band, acrobats, dancers, show girls, extraordinary costumes worn in Carnival parades, and participation by passengers and crew.   Although some complained (as our generation is prone to) about the loud music, this is the way it is at Carnival.  We thoroughly enjoyed the performance, but one hour was quite enough!

Carnival Dancer and Show Girl

More Dancers and Carnival Costumed Ladies

Carnival Photos by Norman Rafelson

Finding our way back to the room, dead tired, we dined on pizza and tomato soup in our suite, and were in bed by 9:00pm.  We are definitely night birds!