Free Lemurs, Striking Frogs, and Wooden Dodos

Prepared February 28 and 29, 2012, in port, Port Blair, Andaman Islands, India and en route Phuket, Thailand



February 11 and 12, 2012 at sea, en route to Fort Dauphin, Madagascar:  Rest and Recovery

After the hectic activity of the last week of safari in South Africa, the two-day crossing from Richards Bay to Fort Dauphin was very restful.  We slept in, played bridge and trivial pursuit, watched the on-board entertainment (including the other passengers), and, of course, ate!  Not that we needed to eat, but....

J and E are looking forward to Madagascar.   We have been trying since 1997 to see lemurs in the wild! (For the uninitiated, lemurs are the long-tailed, big-eyed, furry primates that played a major role in the movie, "Madagascar.")  Since they are only found in the wild on the Island of Madagascar, the only chance to see them in their habitat is on the Island; however, on our previous two visits, we have only seen caged or leashed lemurs.  But, hope springs eternal.

The evening of the 12th, the Captain informed us that due to a cyclone approaching Madagascar from the east, we would shorten our port visit at Fort Dauphin by 5 hours and sail for Reunion Island on a more southerly course.  Maybe he didn't want to upset the drinks on deck at the pool- side cocktail party for World Cruise passengers, scheduled for that evensing.


February 13, 2012 in port, Fort Dauphin, Madagascar:  Free the Lemur!

Instead of anchoring in the harbor, the Silver Whisper docked in the recently-completed port near Fort Dauphin.  The port was built and operated by Rio Tinto to export chromium ore from a newly-opened mine nearby.  Rio Tinto apparently lets cruise ships use the pier, probably for a "nominal fee,"  when a bulk cargo ship is not loading ore.   Whatever the reason, it is a great improvement over tendering, as we did at the infamous Nossi-Bi, Madagascar -- voted the worst Silversea port-of-call by an overwhelming majority of passengers on the 2007 World Cruise.

Disembarking, we climbed aboard a local "air-conditioned" tour bus for a 20-minute drive, some of it on unimproved road, to the Saidi Botanical Garden on the outskirts of Fort Dauphin.   We were greeted by a ranger from the Garden who escorted us on our tour.  We had not walked a hundred yards when what should we behold but a ring-tailed lemur, not just one, but a whole clan of them living in the trees.  Also, there were some caged brown lemurs.   They had been taken from a private individual and were being reintroduced into the wild.  The lemurs were a major find, even though they were probably, at best, semi-wild.

The Official Greeter:  Checking Out the New Arrivals

Ring-Tailed Lemur On Parade

Is This Where the Meeting Is?

Lemur pictures could go on for some time 

Next, we trekked off for a two-hour walk through the botanical garden.  Regretfully, the garden suffers heavily from the independence syndrome that has reduced most of Africa's physical and scientific infrastructure to little better than junk!  The garden's staff, although competent to guide cruise ship tourists with a general interest in natural history, were clearly not trained biologists, and there were no operating reasearch facilities to be seen.  The aid money for that sort of thing usually goes to the Swiss Bank Accounts of the President and his henchmen.  Sadly, the price of freedom in Africa has often been poverty!

Where Are The Master Gardeners When You Need Them?

Help!  My Grandmother's House Plant Has Escaped

We did see another clan of ring-tailed lemurs, and got to visit enclosures for the local land tortoise and the local crocodile, which appeared to be smaller than the Asian crocodiles (island dwarfism?), and could be a species of alligator.  It had a very pointed snout!  We were thirsty and glad to sit after two hours of leisurely walking in the shaded, but very humid garden!

Another Lemur Picture!

Jerry Couldn't Resist

Madagascar Land Tortoise

Madagascar Crocodile - Note Pointed Snout

Back on the Bus

And this is an improved road!

Fort Dauphin, the French garrison that defended the settlement of the same name, was our next stop.  Built at various times from the 17th to the 20th Century, its gun positions, barracks, and other military accouterments all have one thing in common -- they are in a state of near collapse!  This is the case, although the fort is an active military garrison.  We toured the fort's small museum (the exhibits were all in French, and our guide was lost somewhere else).  The pictures were interesting if not entirely comprehensible.

19th Century Gun Position, Fort Dauphin

And There Wasn't Even a Battle Fought Here!

Can't help but wonder what the French Foreign Legion would make of this.

On our way out, several of us talked with the Vice Commandant of the garrison.  His English was as limited as our French, so the conversation was limited.  But, the Deputy Commandant wore the insignia of a naval marine officer and was pleased when J communicated that he was ex-Navy.  He explained that another army officer standing a bit to the side was the Fort's Commanding Officer.  No doubt, they were looking for "spies" or maybe he said "pies."

Badge of Fort Dauphin

Leaving the fort, we drove through the town of Fort Dauphin and along the shore to a local beach resort for the ritual of "soft drink and handicrafts."  There was a local song and dance troop performing folk dances, which broke up the normal routine of trying to solve the mystery of why so many locally-made handicrafts carry the strange heirogliphic "Made in China" in some inconspicuous place.  Also, we were providing some entertainment for the locals, who were gathered in numbers beyond the resort's fence to watch the strange behavior of tourists.

From the "soft drink and handicrafts" stop, it was back to the ship and our early sail-away to escape the worst of Cyclone Marianne!


February 14, 2012, er route Pointe de Galets, Reunion Islands.  Cyclone Marianne Makes Trouble for Cupid

Our early departure on February 13 from Fort Dauphine, Madagascar was caused by a fast-approaching category 4, tropical cyclone, named Marianne.  (For the unwashed -- Tropical Cyclones or Cyclones in the Southern Hemisphere are the same, except for the direction of rotation, as Hurricanes in the Atlantic or Eastern Pacific or Typhoons in the Western Pacific.  Thus ends the geography lesson for today.  Amen).  Instead of sailing northeast, the direct route from Fort Dauphine to Pointe de Galets, we sailed on an easterly track, keeping the storm about 300nm to our north and west.  This avoidance track to Reunion increased our sailing time by several hours and caused the early departure, but it kept the Silver Whisper away from the storm's most disturbed seas and high winds.  Even so, the avoidance track resulted in sailing through swells of 25 to 30 feet and wind speeds with gusts over 50 knots.

E is of the school of thought shared by most cruise passengers that all cruising should be done in placid seas with waves similar to those in a bath tub!  However,  for ships the size of Silver Whisper, it is much better to take an avoidance track and ride the storm out at sea.  Which is what we did.  After leaving Fort Dauphine, the swimming pool and hot tubs were drained, and all deck furniture was stored. As they said in the days of sail -- the hatches were battened down.  We passed through the worst swells and gusts during the late night hours of 13/14 February, when, thankfully, most passengers were tucked up in bed.  It was still bad enough that, on the morning of the 14th, "Happy Valentines Day" was said to more than one slightly gray-green partner, who had declared no interest in breakfast, needed to rest (stay in bed),  and showed NO taste for any bon-bons in that box of Valentine's Day chocolates.

However, by noon, the swells and wind gusts were decreasing, and more passengers began to appear.  J and E, bridge fanatics that they are, went to both the bridge lesson and played.  However, the number of participants was less than usual.  By evening, the sea state had calmed, and we had dinner in La Terrazza with Joanne and Hayden and Kat and Don.  Valentine's Day was celebrated appropriately with long-stemmed red roses for the ladies.


February 15, 2012, Pointe des Galets, Reunion Islands:  The EU in Action or Striking Frogs

A little political geography -- The Reunion IsIands have, since 1946, been governed as an Overseas Department of France.  Therefore, Reunion has access to funding of the same quality of infrastructure, social welfare, and French Culture as any department in metropolitan (European) France.  Think a little bit of France in the Indian Ocean.  Thus, again ends the geography lesson.  Amen.  So, Reunion has fine roads, harbors, municipal buildings, and all the other elements of a developed, prosperous European Union state.  It also, probably, is heavily in debt, but that is a French problem. No?

One of the results of France's and EU's munificence is an excellent Natural and Cultural History Museum set in a Botanical Garden (Jardin de l'Etat) in St. Dennis, Reunion's capital.  It was J's and E's plan of the day to take a taxi from the port at Pointe des Galets and spend some time in the garden and the museums.  J was particularly keen on seeing the only existent "stuffed"  Dodo Bird.  J has a particular fondness for the Dodo Bird and thinks it should be made the human race's animal symbol.

But this was not to be.  Because another aspect of EU/French economic development intervened.   When we docked, the local authorities (you know the guys who leave the ship with Johnny Walker Black in a brief case and smiles of well-fed cats) informed us that the transport workers were on strike and that there would be no buses for tours or taxis available.  See what J means about the Dodo Bird as humanity's international symbol!  In the name of worker solidarity, the crew shuttle bus, provided by the port, would run to a local small town which had a beach and some shops.  After about thirty seconds of consideration, we dedided to stay on board.  It was also very hot!

We never heard what the tranport strikers were demanding, but given the current work rules and hours in the EU, one can only imagine!  "Bring the Revolution.  Up the Two-Day Work Week!!!  Viva la France!  Viva la EU!  Viva la Dodo!"

So, we departed Reunion as the sun dropped below the horizon and set course for Port Louis, Mauritius.


February 15, 2012,  Port Louis, Mauritius:  The Tale of the Wooden Dodo

The Silver Whisper docked at Port Louis Mauritius at 7:00am, and by 8:30, the land tours were on their way to explore such things as Dolphins, oversized coconuts, and the local scene from a bus.  J and E gave the tours a pass, slept in, had a late breakfast, and caught the ship's shuttle to  the newly-redeveloped Caudan Waterfront.

Port Louis is the capital and major city of Mauritius, which is the name of the island and of the independent nation of the Republic of Mauritius.  Mauritius was a British Colony that became independent in the 1960s.  Although there has been some recent development, it has not fared as well as Reunion.  No fancy infrastructure or social welfare system here.  This is a good, old, free-enterprise system!  So, the private sector has built some bank and insurance buildings, a fancy shopping center (mostly for tourists), and resorts for Europeans escaping the winter with long flights and short stays on sandy beaches.  But, there is no striking here!

Early Building in the Port

Redeveloped Caudan Waterfront Shopping Mall

Our short time ashore was mainly spent looking around the national handicraft stalls in the shopping center.  That strange "Made in China" hieroglyph was everywhere.  Jerry did find one young man sitting at a table carving wooden Dodo Birds.  J could not resist.  Here was humanity's symbol in three dimensions.  What a find.  And it might have been the only thing in the handicraft mall without the strange hieroglyph!  So J paid an inflated price for the little guy, and he now sits on the desk by the laptop to remind him of humanity's future.

Yes, It Is Colorful, But Do You Have Anything a Little Smaller?

J's NOT Made in China Dodo Bird!

Most of the people in the shopping center were from the ship, so we stopped and talked about the local artifacts and purchases.  After giving up on walking into other areas of town because of the temperature, and having visited every possible store of any interest, we returned to the shuttle bus and short trip back to the port on an unimproved road.

There is a small museum here devoted to the Mauritius 2p blue, one of the most valuable 19th Century postage stamps.  The post office that issued the stamp is still in use, but we had visited both before and decided it wasn't worth seeing again.  Besides, J has the t-shirt, so why bother!

We were scheduled to sail at 4:30pm to begin our 5-day crossing of the Indian Ocean, but the fuel barge had not been refueled from the on- shore tanks after the Cyclone (Mauritius was also affected), so the ship's refueling was not completed until after 10:00pm.  This gave us a late start on a long at-sea segment, and at the last minute, the powers that be in the Indian Ocean rerouted us south of Diego Garcia, because of a pirate incident the previous week.  (It's the Indian Ocean; you think we are talking near realtime here?)  The extended routing also increased our fuel requirements, so it was later yet out of Port Louis.

The Fuel Barge Approaches

The Drakensberg, Blood River and Return to Richards Bay

Prepared February 26 and 27, 2012, en route Port Blair, Andaman Islands, India

February 9, 2012, Kwazulu Natal, South Africa:  Giant's Castle and Cleopatra's

After breakfast at Three Tree Lodge, we set off for the Drakensberg Mountains.  The Drakensberg forms the border between Lesotho and South Africa.  It is also the geologic boundary between the flat table land of high veld and the low lands (low veld) of the Pietermaritzburg midlands as well as the coastal lowlands along the Indian Ocean.  From Kwazulu Natal, the Drakensberg appear as an almost vertical wall rising from the mist up to 10,000 feet above the rolling flat lands.

The Drakensberg Appear

Driving south and southeast,  we passed through both modern farmlands and Zulu homelands.  The contrast is stark.  Farms remind J of his family's farms in central Kansas, while the Zulu homelands are small holdings visibly immersed in obvious poverty.  As we turned southwest, the Drakensberg appeared out of the morning haze, looking like the brooding wall of an ageless fortress.  The elevation increased, and we entered the foothills and began our climb into the mountains to visit Giant's Castle.  Giant's Castle is a rock formation resembling the turrets of a very large fortress.  The rock formation is honey-combed with caves, and in some of those caves are wall paintings done by the Sand people.  (The Sand people occupied large areas of South Africa before the migrations of the Bantu, i.e., Zulus and other modern tribal groups from central Africa.)

The Giant's Castle

Our goal was to view the caves with Sand people cave paintings; however, after parking the car and hiking about two miles along a well-prepared trail, we had another mile to go to reach the cave and a desicion had to be made.  We either visited the Sand people's paintings or we went to a reserved lunch.  Guess which activity was voted most important!  So, intellectual enlightenment was cast aside, and we headed back to Rob's SUV for the trip to Cleopatra's and lunch.

As Close as We Got to The Giant's Castle

Cave with Sand People's Paintings is in Upper Left Center

Cleopatra's full name is Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse.  It is named for Cleopatra Mountain, an outcropping that roughly resembles Cleopatra in the Drakensberg Mountains, which overshadows the restaurant (or as the flyer says, "romantic gourmet getaway").  Cleopatra's is owned and operated by Richard and Mouse Poynton, who developed the property on the site of his family's fishing cabin.  Before we sat down to lunch, Chef Richard, a friend of our guide Rob, gave us a tour, and spoke about his baboon problem.  Chef Richard grows all his own organic herbs, fruits, and vegetables, also considered gourmet quality by the baboons.  He uses local meats and dairy products.  So, the meals are fresh and tasty.  The pumpkin soup and seafood curry which J and E had was superb!  Sorry, cave paintings you lose and without a trace of guilt!

A Black and White Ibis on the Pond at Cleopatra's

After our three-course lunch (appetizer, main course, and dessert with cappuccino) by the lake, we reluctantly waddled to the SUV to cross the rolling plains of Kwazulu Natal.  On the trip back, Rob wanted us to see some elan (Africa's largest antelope), so we did some game spotting near Kanberg Nature Reserve.  After some excellent spotting by Rob (what J saw--claiming to be elan--ended up being rocks), we saw a herd of elan with one male and three females.  Then, we drove back to the lodge.  Truthfully, neither J or E ate much dinner that evening.

All Right, Smart Guy  -- You Find the Elan

February 10, 2012, Kwazulu Natal, South Africa:  Blood River and Richards Bay

After packing and breakfast, the SUV was loaded, and it was off for a long day of driving to visit another battle ground and return to the Silver Whisper, in port at Richards Bay.  We headed northeast through Ladysmith.  Today, it is a small agricultural service center with few indications of its former role in the Boer War.  Continuing to the northeast about 30 miles, we came to Dundee.  This entire route is marked with sites of battles from the Boer/Zulu, British/Zulu, and British/Boer wars.  Our purpose was to visit one of the most important battle sites in the Boer/Zulu conflict -- Blood River.

In the 1830s, Boer settlers began to enter (from the west) the Zululand part of Kwazulu Natal, looking to establish their farms in areas that were outside of British rule.  In 1838, a large party of Boers entered from the  Free State and started negotiations with Dingaan, the Zulu Principal Chief, and half-brother of Shaka.  He had killed Shaka to become Principal Chief and was not pleased with Boer immigration in Zululand.  The Boers had gained a reputation as "wizards" because of victories, over the Mathabale at the Battle of Mmajuba and other engagements, where they lost very few men and killed many of their enemies.  Dingaan invited Piet Retief and a small party of his followers to his kraal near Ulundi to negotiate a land deal.  After the land deal was agreed upon, Dingaan invited Retief's party to a celebration the next day, when the Boers were all killed in most unpleasant ways.  Dingaan then attacked the existing Boer farms in Zululand, killing many additional Boers.

The Boer response to Dingaan's negotiating tactics was to organize a Commando raid under the leadership of Andries Pretorius to attack the Zulus.  The party consisted of 464 men and about 200 retainers.  The Commandos, in addition to their mounts, had specially-built ox wagons that not only carried supplies but could be formed into a laager (circle) and be bound together as a fort.  Dingaan's  estimated 15,000 man army attacked the Boer laager at the Ncome River on the night of  December 16, 1878, and the fighting continued until about noon the next day.  The Zulus are estimated to have lost 6,000 men (Dingaan's army was destroyed), and the Boers had not suffered a single fatality (3 men were slightly wounded).  Many of the Zulu warriors were trapped and killed trying to cross the Ncome River.  So many, in fact, that the river ran red with blood.  Hence, the name of the battle and the river became Blood River.  Blood River firmly established the Boers in Zululand, and there was little organized hostility between them and the Zulus after Pretorius' campaign of 1838-1839.

The battlefield site is a major Boer cultural symbol, and there is a small museum with artifacts from the battle and a narration of the battle.  The major attraction is the battlefield monument itself, which is a replica in bronze of the Boer laager as it stood on the night of 1838.  It is an imposing monument appearing alone on a vast open area of velt.

Blood River Museum and Boer Victory Monument

Boer Victory Monument

Bronze Laager at Site of Blood River Battle

Bronze Ox Wagons, Barrier and Cannon

After visiting the museum and the monument, we headed southeast toward Richards Bay.   We passed very near the site of the Battle of Isandlwana, where British forces suffered a major defeat at the hands of the Zulu in 1879 (we had visited the site in 2006).  Continuing southeast, we entered a mountainous area, the boundary between the lowland velt and the coastal lowland, where commercial forestry covers many thousands of acres.  Pulling off the road and into a firebreak, we stopped for tea and biscuits.  To the north and south of our onward route were the traditional homes of the Zulu kings.  Continuing down the western slope of the mountains, we reached the coastal plain near Nyoka and finally arrived at the port of Richards Bay.

Richards Bay is a major South African port shipping raw materials to Asia.  It is huge, with bulk cargo carriers (for coal, chromium ore, and who knows what else) tied up by the dozens.  Also, there are the container piers.  And, it seems it is uncommon for a cruise ship to make port here!  So, we succeeded in losing the Silver Whisper, and no thanks to the local port staff - "cruise ship; no cruise ship."  We spent an hour roaming the port looking for our ship.  Finally, a rather large stevedore-type person told Rob it might be at the yacht harbor.  "They put small ships out there sometimes."  Sure enough, that was where we found our floating home.  We were getting a little concerned.

From Hunter's to Three Tree Lodge and Spion Kop

Prepared February 22, 2012, en route Colombo, Sri Lanka and February 26, 2012 en route Port Blair, Andaman Islands.

February 7, 2012, Garden Route and KwaZulu Natal, South Africa:  A Long Day of Travel

Completing breakfast and checking out of Hunter's Country House by 8:00am, we drove west on the Garden Route toward the town of George where we were to catch our 11:30am SAA Commuter flight to Durban.  Traveling across the Knysna Estuary and the uplands, we entered the Sedgefield area and the estuary formed by the Diep and Karatara Rivers.  The Sedgefield estuary and marshlands are a wilderness national park, and there are many bird species in the area.  Climbing the uplands west of Sedgefield, there are panoramic views of the Indian Ocean.  Our guide was keen to point out beaches in this area, because they are the premier surfing sites in South Africa!  Being from Hawaii, this had to be important information to us:  he was a surfer himself -- Hang Ten!

South Africa's Best Surfing Sites

Descending from the hills into George, another 19th Century settlement now devoted to tourism, we drove through the town to the George Airport.  This regional airport was anything but congested, and it took only a short time to check-in, clear security, and say thanks and good-bye to our driver/guide, Gareth.   After a short wait, we walked out on the apron and boarded our Embracero commuter jet for the 1:30 minute flight to Durban.

There were only 8 passengers aboard the flight, and except for some mild turbulence, it was uneventful.  SAA even served a box lunch and drinks!   Not like the American commuter airlines, which removed the galley to cram in more bodies.  Visualize a US commuter flight announcement circa 2015:  "OK, everyone stand very close together.  Aren't we all comfy?"

We landed at the recently-opened Shaka International Airport   Named for the great Zulu principal chief, Shaka Zulu. (Not the Hawaiian hand sign!)  The airport is huge and designed to be "grown into," so it feels a little lonely when you arrive on a flight with eight passengers.  After the luggage was picked-up, we were met by our driver/guide for the Kwazulu-Natal portion of the tour -- Rob.

Rob escorted us to his four-wheel drive land cruiser, stowed the luggage in the back, and at about 1:30pm, it was off on a four-plus hour drive to the Spion Kop area of western Kwazulu-Natal and the Three Tree Lodge, where we would spend the next three nights.  Traveling on the N2 toll road, we went south into the outskirts of Durban and then turned northwest on N3 towards Pietermaritzberg.  We turned off N3 northwest of Pietermaritzberg and proceeded along R103 (a two-lane highway) until we reached Balgowan, where we stopped at Granny Mouse Country House for tea and scones.   We were greeted by two large and very friendly dogs, who made immediate friends with E and followed her onto the lanai where tea was served.  Rob knew the owners and staff, so we were very well treated.  (The scones with fresh clotted cream were wonderful, not at all like the hard-tack biscuits that pass for scones on the ship.)

Part of KwaZulu Natal

This is the area where most of the sites mentioned are located

After the tea break, it was back on the road to Mooi River (Rob's home), Escort, and the Ladysmith junction.  Turning southwest on R616, we approached the east-to-west trending Spion Kop Hills from the north, and passed around them to the west, reaching Three Tree Lodge about 6:00pm.  We were welcomed by the owner's mother and four Lodge dogs, given a cold drink, and shown to our cabin to freshen-up and get ready for dinner at about 7:30.  Our cabin was a replica of a small, late 19th Century house.  It was built out of corrigated, galvinized iron, with a lanai facing Spion Kop (hill) and the battlefield.  There was a game reserve on three sides of the Lodge, but we were not lucky and did not see any game, although other guests did (giraffes and rhino).  Before dinner, we met Simon, the owner of Three Tree and the man who would escort us on our Boer War battlefields' tour the next day.  Dinner was served while we were seated around a large table with 12 guests, 2 family members, and 4 dogs all in attendance.  At about 9:00pm, we wished everyone a good night and walked back to the cabin and bed.

Moon Rise Over Spion Kop

February 8, 2012, KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa:  Boer War Battles

NOTE:  19th Century South Africa's history is in many ways a dance of death between three contending groups trying to occupy and control what is now Kwazulu Natal.  Three major wars were fought in the northwestern part of Kwazulu Natal between 1837 and 1904 --  the Boer-Zulu Wars of the 1830s, the Zulu-British War of the 1870s, and the Boer-British War of 1899 to 1904.  The above map scan shows the area.  In this area, the British probably suffered more military defeats than in any other part of the Empire (possibly excluding Afghanistan).

In 1899, the Boer Republics, fearing take-over by the British Colonial Government in Cape Town, invaded Natal and occupied the northwestern portion.  A British garrison was surrounded and trapped in Ladysmith.  One large force, under Gen. Bulwer, was sent from Durban to relieve Ladysmith.  However, what was presented to the British public as a short/cheap war turned very ugly when Boar Commandos in a matter of 7 days defeated Bulwer's forces at Stromberg, Magersfonten, and Colenso.  The Black Week turned a short/cheap war into a long/expensive one!  We visited one of those battle sites (Colenso), the site of the battle of Spion Kop, and a third engagement near Colenso.  Had things worked out differently at this third engagement, the history of the 20th Century would have changed markedly.

Leaving the Three Tree Lodge after a hearty breakfast, J & E with Simon and Rob drove southeast toward Estcourt until we reached the railroad line near Frere.  We parked Simon's van and walked a short distance across the railroad tracks to a grave site which memorializes the death of three British soldiers of a Lancaster Regiment.  Near this site, Winston Churchill was captured by the Boers.  Simon related the events of Churchill's capture.  Churchill, although no longer an army officer but a newspaper reporter, organized the effort to free an armored train that had been ambushed by the Boers.  He and another British officer successfully freed the train and sent it steaming away.  But, they were unable to get aboard and were captured by the Boers.  Churchill would later escape from the Boars' POW camp.  His sensational adventures were widely reported, leading to his running for Parliament and becoming an MP at 25.  The rest of the story is history, as they say.

Grave Marker of British Soldiers Killed

in the Armored Train Engagement

Rail Line

Churchill was captured near left center, demarked by electrification towers

along modernized rail line.

Returning to the van, we drove through the town of Colenso, where on December 15,1899, British forces were massed to attack Boer forces encircling Ladysmith and to relieve the British garrison there.  Simon drove us to a ridge north of Colenso.  Here the Boer commander (Gen. Lewis Botha) had established dummy gun positions to draw British artillery fire away from his actual troop positions hidden along the Thugela River, much closer to Colenso.  Sitting in camp chairs on the ridge line, Simon narrated the sequence of battle.  Simply, the Boer ambush failed because of preemptory fire by green troops.  But, the British failed to cross the Thugela River, and because of deadly Boer rifle and artillery fire, the Brits were forced to fall back, losing 74 officers and men, as well as several artillery pieces.

Colenso Battefield from Dummy Gun Position

Battlefied is in center of frame along tree line

By the time Simon had finished his narration, thankfully, the sun had gone behind some clouds, and a breeze came up.  It was still in the low 90s but didn't feel quite so oppressive as we made our way back to the van for the 30-minute drive to the Spion Kop battlefield.  Spion Kop is a series of three mounds forming a ridge line and running east to west appoximately 1,000 ft. above the valley of the Tugela River.  Fortunately, for both J&E, we did not have to climb Spion Kop, but we could be driven to the summit where the major portion of the battle took place.  However, before the narrated tour of the battlefield, a delicious picnic lunch (compliments of Three Tree Lodge) was served and eaten.  This lunch was definitely NOT field rations!  There was fried chicken, ham and cheese sandwiches, cheese, cookies, and fruit.

Lunch having been eaten and the picnic stuff stored in the van, we started the narrated tour of the Battle of Spion Kop.  British forces, now commanded by Gen. Warren, had advanced westward along the Tugela River in hopes of finding a crossing (drift) that would allow them to encircle the Boer forces defending Ladysmith on the South and West.  The drift was to the south of Spion Kop, and to protect the elements crossing the river, on January 23, 1900, Gen. Warren ordered the Spion Kop to be occupied with a night attack.  This attack was successful, and a small, Boer reconnaisance unit was thrown off the hill and retreated to Boer positions on the north slope.  The British then began to entrench their positions on the center crest of the hill, not realizing that the Boers had artillery (Krupp 75mm guns) on both the smaller mounds to the east and west of their position.

Ridgeline of British Night Advance

Site Where British Drove Boer Patrol from Spion Kop

White markers in center of frame

At daylight on January 24, 1900, the Boer commandos under Gen. Lewis Botha attacked the British from the north slope, and their artillery began firing directly along and into the shallow trenches that the Brits had dug during the night.  This slaughter went on until evening, with the British suffering heavy casualties and making one command error after another.  Since neither Gens. Warren or Bulwer had direct observation of the fighting, and the senior officers of Spion Kop were being slaughtered along with their men, there was no coherent battle plan.  By evening, both the Boers and British had decided to withdraw because of heavy casualties.  Both sides withdrew during the late evening, but during the night, Boer reconnaisance discovered that the British had left the field and reoccupied the crest; thereby claiming victory.  Simon explained all of this and noted many of the specific accounts of bravery and sacrifice made by officers and men on both sides.

Remains of British Trenches

British Trench Line/Grave

Because of the heavy British casualties, men were buried in the trench where they fell.

On the day after the fighting, there was a truce to bury the dead, most of whom were buried in trenches where they fell.  Many of the Boers were so shaken by the experience of burying the British dead that they left the battlefield.  Also, on the day after the battle, three men who would have great influence on 20th Century, world history were on Spion Kop -- Winston Churchill, Mahatma Gandi, and Lewis Botha.

Tombstone of a British Officer Erected by His Family

Memorial to the British Officers and Men

Memorial to Boer Officers and Men

After visiting the grave markers of both the British forces (1,743 killed and wounded) and the Boer (335 killed and wounded) who perished during the fighting, we returned to the van.  In the two-plus hours' time that we had been trekking the hill and listening to Simon's narration, the weather had continued to deteriorate.  Storm clouds and lightning could be seen in the distance, and we were glad to be back at Three Tree Lodge for a cold drink and a hot shower before the sky fell upon us.  After the storm, we had dinner with the other guests, the family, and of course the dogs!

Note from J:  All of the materials covered by Simon's narration, I have recounted from memory.  It may not be historically accurate.  If you want the history of the Boer War, please consult your local library for the relevant books or Google it!  But, beware, there are (even today) two versions -- British and Boer!

To be continued....

The Garden Route -- Knysna

Prepared February 19 and 20, 2012, en route Male, Maldive Islands

February 6, 2012, Knysna Region, South Africa:  From the Forest to the Sea

At 7:30am, breakfast in the Orangerie of the Hunter's Country Lodge main house consisted of a buffet plus an ala carte menu of numerous eggs and things like French toast.   J had to sample both the buffet and the menu.  His view being that strenuous touring might include the possibility (however slight) of missing a meal!  Our driver/guide, Gareth, arrived a little after 8:00am, and it was into the car to explore the Knysna (pronounced Nizna) region of the Garden Route, from the Gounveld Forest in the mountainous interior to The Heads where the Indian Ocean enters the Knysna Estuary.

We drove west on National Road N2, passing Knysna Town and crossing the Knysna River and turned north on the road to Rheenenda.  Driving for an hour, we passed through Rheenenda and reached our first stop, Millwood.   Gold was discovered at Millwood in 1876, and a gold rush ensued; however, the pickings were very slim, and the amounts of gold recovered never approached that found in the Transvaal, and by 1900, Millwood was a ghost town.  Today, there is a walking path to a couple of the mine sites, a tea garden, and museum.  Regretfully, this being a Monday, both the tea room and the museum were closed.

Millwood Museum and Tea Garden

Restored Millwood House:  Front View

Restored Millwood House: Side and Rear View

Abandoned Minning Equipment and Trail to Mine Site

Abandoned Mine Entrance

While returning to the car from visiting the original settlement site, we met up with Mssrs. Baboons.  Earlier, we had seen a baboon troup hanging out in a shaded area with a large tree.  We had proceeded up the road a short distance and parked to look at the old town site, and returning to the car, Gareth spotted two large male baboons about 50 yards opposite the car and tree with the rest of the baboon troop.  This was not a really wonderful position to be in.  So, into the car and out of there we got!  For any of you who are wondering, male baboons can badly damage a car by jumping on it.  They weight over 100lbs. in the wild and have larger incisors than most predatory cats.

  

Original Site of Millwood Town

These Bad Boys Mean Business

On the way down the mountain, we stopped at the Big Tree and Dalene Mathee Memorial.  The tree is one of the few remaining original growth trees in the Goudveld Forest.  Wood products were a major export of the Knysna region in the 19th Century, and most of the existing forest is secondary regrowth.  Dalene Mathee was a South Aftrican author who wrote extensively about the region.  Her most well-known book is Circles in the Forest.

The Big Tree -- Last of Its Kind?

Dalene Mathee Memorial

Back on the road to Knysna Town, Gareth told us stories of the local equivalent to the Ozark Mountain Hillbillies, who live in the forest and make their living from cutting trees and making wood products.  There are a small number of families who trace their roots in the area to the early 19th Century, and their attitudes and life styles are very different from any other group in the Knysna region.

Returning to Knysna Town, we stopped to visit the town Gaol (Prison).  Built in the 1830s as a regional jail, it is now a museum.  The most interesting exhibit was about the Knysna elephant.  When Knysna was settled in the 19th Century, there was a herd of elephants in the region.  Estimated to number over 400 in 1876, by 1994, only one cow could be found, but there may be more, as recent sightings may indicate at least three elephants in the area.  The importance of these elephants is that they were the southern-most herd on the African continent.

Old Gaol Museum, Knysna

If the Knysna Elephants Could Talk
Caption:  I know this is going to cause an outcry, but their population is exploding out of control.  They are a huge threat to biodiversity, so we are going to have to reduce their numbers!

We also visited another museum of local artifacts from 19th Century life in Knysna.  The museum is housed in two restored buildings originally located at the Millwood town site.  These buildings, which were built in the 1880s, have tin roofs and tin sides with wooden interior walls.  The exhibits show the artifacts of everyday life, much as local museums in the US do.  It is truly surprising how many of those items, from enamel bowls and cups to baby cribs and sewing machines, have an uncanny similarity.  They are worldwide artifacts of European civilization's expansion in the 18th and 19th Centuries.

Knysna Museum -- Restored Early Homes

After the museums, it was off to The Heads for lunch at the East Head Cafe.  We dined al fresco overlooking the narrows and the Western Head.  Lunch was excellent fish and chips made with fresh hake.  To settle our lunch, we walked along the shore and then drove to a viewpoint on top of the Eastern Head to view the narrows and the Indian Ocean.

Dining with a View!





The Narrows





The Indian Ocean, Narrows and West Head

Our last stop before returning to Hunter's Country House was at the tomb of the founder of Knysna, George Rex.  George Rex was reputed to be the bastard son of King George III, who was sent to South Africa to keep him out of sight of the English Nobility (think remittance child).  However, he never admitted or denied this story, and later DNA-based evidence tends to deny its truth.  It still is the local legend!  After buying the land around the estuary, he started a large farm which failed.  Then, he turned to the timber industry, supplying lumber by sea to Cape Town, resulting in great wealth.  Following in the tradition of his possible royal forebearers, George Rex had two common-law wives and 13 children, no doubt singlehandedly trying to populate Knysna.  George Rex's tomb is currently in a state of disrepair and not in the best part of town, so our stop there was short.

Grave Stone of George Rex (d. 1839)

Traveling east along N2, we returned to Hunter's in time for a late, tea-time snack (iced tea and double portion chocolate cake) served on the tented patio.  We retired to our cottage for an early evening and preparation for the next day's travel to George and our flight to Durban.

To be continued....