Prepared February 16, 2012, in port Port Louis, Mauritius and en route Male, Maldives
February 3, 2012 South Atlantic Ocean en route to Cape Town: A Farewell Party to Remember
Departing Walvis Bay, Namibia in the early afternoon of the previous day, we made south southeast toward Cape Town in moderate seas. After the usual morning bridge lecture, writing on the blog, bridge play in the afternoon, and afternoon tea, a farewell dinner was held in the ship's restaurant for Richard and Patsy, our bridge-playing, tea-chatting friends, and occasional dinner companions since we had departed Fort Lauderdale. They were to disembark in Cape Town to visit friends and family.
Formally attired, we arrived in the restaurant at 8:00 pm to be escorted to a table for 12 set for a place-card dinner. As soon as we saw the place cards, we knew that this was going to be a very "special" dinner! The cards were drawn by Polly, a very talented artist and crew member of the "Silver Queen" of the boat-building contest fame.
Name Cards for Guests Who May Forget Their Names!
In addition to Richard and Patsy, (the guests of honor) and ourselves, others included Polly (artist of note), Joe, Mike and Viv, Ted and Pauline, Camilla, and Sujith. After wine was served, toasts were made, some re-made, and stories told. Dinner was served (lamb for J and fish for E), and conversation flowed like the wine. At about 11:00pm (an hour after the restaurant closed), the happy band staggered to their cabins (the ship seemed to be rolling more than normal) to rest for the arrival at Cape Town.
February 4, 2012, South Atlantic Ocean and Cape Town, South Africa: The Lost Hotel and the Hunt at Victoria and Albert Waterfront
As we approached Cape Town, the swells diminished, and the weather cleared. Silver Whisper stood off the harbor waiting for the harbor pilot and a berth, so we had a clear view of Table Mountain and the City of Cape Town. Finally, the pilot boarded, and we entered Duncan Dock harbor to be greeted by a seal who watched the entire docking as if he were the pilot! Then, the South African immigration officials boarded, we were inspected (stamp, stamp) and allowed to disembark. (Another country fearing mass cruise ship passenger immigration?)
Cape Town & Table Mountain from Seaward
Having docked and been cleared, it was time to begin our six days of South African shore leave! Having packed our safari gear (except E's hat, an oversight), and collected our passports, it was down the gang plank and into the cruise terminal, where we were promptly cornered by South African Ag inspectors in search of illegal fruits and nuts. (Sounds like Hawaii.) None were found, so we passed out of the terminal to be greeted by a driver who was to take us to our Cape Town hotel, where we were to stay until our flight to Port Elizabeth early the next morning.
Into the air conditioned car to escape the 95 Deg F plus heat and off we go to our hotel - The Queen Victoria - which had been organized by our friend from White River, Ethne. Arriving at the hotel to check in, we were escorted to reception, waited the requisite twenty minutes, and were delicately informed that we were at the WRONG hotel. This was the Victoria and Albert, not the Queen Victoria; however, they were owned by the same firm, so it was back into the car up hill behind the Victoria and Albert Waterfront, and finally to the QV! The QV is a recently-opened, boutique hotel, and definitely worth getting the name straight!
After settling into our room, we set off to the huge shopping and recreational complex known as the Victoria and Albert Waterfront. The main object was to try and find a pair of "fit-over" sunglasses for J, because his transition lenses are not up to the bright light of the southern hemisphere in summer. Well, the search was unsuccessful, although J did find an alarm clock (ZAR 10.00 ~US$1.50) to use while on safari and replace the digital monster that is in the suite on the ship.
As good fortune would have it, we literally ran into Richard and Patsy in the W&A shopping center, and invited them for tea at the Queen Victoria Hotel. We trekked back up the hill to the hotel and adjorned to the lobby bar, where tea was organized with sandwiches and cookie treats. After talking story for an hour or so, our friends headed off to meet other friends at the W&A Waterfront, and we went to our room for a long, long shower in a giant bathroom that didn't move. It was a short night's sleep before the 5:30 AM wake-up call for our car ride to the airport and flight to Port Elizabeth.
February 5, 2012, Port Elizabeth, Plettenberg Bay, South Africa: Walking the Animals and The Good Life of the Garden Route
On checking out of the Queen Victoria, where the proffered breakfast ended up being a cup of strong coffee and nothing more, there was an early morning drive through Cape Town to the Airport. Check in for the SAA commuter flight to Port Elizabeth was painless and even the airport security check was accomplished without the TSA's surly intrusiveness. With less than 10 passengers on the early morning commuter jet, the one hour flight was comfortable and the box breakfast was edible. It helped to be hungry.
Recovering our bags at Port Elizabeth, we were met by Gareth. He was to be our driver/guide for the next two days of touring along the Garden Route from Port Elizabeth to George. (Highwary N2 follows the Indian Ocean coast from Cape Town to Port Elizabeth.) Turning west on N2 toward Plettenberg Bay, we drove for about 2 hours to the Storms River Bridge. The Storms River is in a deep gorge marking the beginning of the Garden Route's numerous national parks.
Storms River from Storms River Bridge
For lunch, we stopped at Bramon Wine Estate. Although neither of us drink, we had a wonderful meza-style lunch of salad, cheeses, meats, pates, and homemade fresh bread. Truly bountiful travelers' fare.
Lunch Among The Vines
Eloise and Guide Discussing
After lunch and a short stop at the Mill Mohair and Decor Centre (so E could pet the angora goats and J buy a pair of formal socks), it was off to the Elephant Sanctuary, and a walk with the elephants. The African elephants, which have been at the Sanctuary since they were orphaned, have been trained to obey the commands of their handlers and can be touched and closely inspected by the tourists. The high point is "walking" with the elephant while holding his trunk. This entire experience lasted about an hour, including a lecture by one of the handlers on elephant physiology.
Petting the Angora Goats
Walking the Elephant (Sabo)
Elephants on Parade
Hand Feeding the Elephants
After the elephants, it seemed unlikely that any wildlife adventure could top that experience. However, our next stop at the Tenikwa Wildlife Awareness Centre did just that. Our walk with the cheetahs was amazing! Arriving in the late afternoon, we waited for about a half-hour, watching meerkats and land tortoises that had been recovered from individuals who were keeping them as illegal pets. We were then given a briefing on cheetahs and ground rules for walking them -- 1) No sun glasses, cigarettes, or purses/bags; 2) Cheetahs first, you follow; 3) Obey the handlers; 4) If the cheetah decides to run, drop the lead and watch him "go"; and 4) If the cheetah stops and lies down, you stop, and wait. Lying down is optional. After the briefing and signing the obligatory disclaimer form, stating that the Centre is not responsible in any way for any thing, it is off to meet the cheetahs.
Mr. Meerkat Takes His Leisure
Land Tortoise on the Move! (Maybe)
Our party consisted of five tourists, two handlers, and two cheetahs (Chester and Sachi), which we were taking for their evening walk in the woods. Each cheetah was on a harness with two 10 foot leads. Usually, you walked beside the animal or closely behind it. So, for one hour plus, even though the cheetahs did a lot of lying about, we walked along unimproved woodland trails with the two cheetahs leading the way. There were many stops so it wasn't too strenuous, and since it was later in the day, the temperature was down. We also stopped to give the cheetahs water, but they were to be fed after returning to their enclosures. The whole experience was like walking a very big domestic cat. They generally went where they wanted. Most of the time, their handlers would convince them to take certain paths, but when it was rest time, it was rest time!
Walking the Cheetah
Let's All Have a Rest
Cheetah Checking Out the Neighborhood
Cheetahs Prefer Bottled Water
Time for Another Little Rest -- No Objections?
After returning to the the Centre's building, we had a snack and returned to the car for the hour's drive to Hunter's Country House, where we spent the next two nights. Passing through Plettenberg Bay, we drove down an improved gravel road to a gate house and onto the Hunter's property, where there are two lodges and a restaurant. We stayed in one of the cottages on the property. The whole property reminds you of an English country house surrounded by exquisite formal gardens. We arrived just at night fall and did not fully appreciate the beauty of the landscaping until the next day. Also, we were too tired to do much except eat a late dinner at the restaurant, shower, and fall exhausted into bed with dreams of elephants and cheetahs dancing in our heads.
To be continued....
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