On China Seas

Prepared April 1, 2012, in port, Penang, Malaysia



March 16  to 19, 2012, en route, Ha Long Bay, Viet Nam:  Even The Albatross Walked

Having sailed from Shanghai's Cruise Terminal pier on the Huangpu River at 11:00pm on March 15, by the morning of March 16, we had turned south from the Yangtze estuary into the East China Sea.  There was dense fog (from the bridge camera you could not make out the bow) with light mist, and temperatures in the 50s Deg F.  Not exactly a good day for lounging on the pool deck.  The ship's course was to take us south southwest through the East China Sea, Taiwan Strait, South China Sea, around the southern tip of Hainan Island and northwest through the Tonkin Gulf (have not heard about that place in a while) to Haiphong.

The fog, with varying degrees of density, would stay with us until we reached Ha Long Bay, and it would play a role in extending our voyage by over 8 hours.and changing our port of arrival in Viet Nam from Haipong to Ha Long Bay.  Our problems began on the afternoon of March 16, when the ship changed course from south to west toward the China coast.  The Captain announced that one of the crew had become critically ill (rumoured to be a heart attack) and would have to be medivaced to a Chinese hospital (What a thrilling thought!).  Because of the fog, it was impossible to use a helicopter, and we were being met by a Chinese Coast Guard cutter from Wenzhou.  Later that evening, the cutter came alongside and the transfer was successfully completed.  The crewman is reported to be recovering.

The Whisper returned to its original southward course toward the Taiwan Strait, but later that night, another medical emergency occured, when a passenger's heart condition worsened (another rumour), and he could no longer be treated on board.  Again, because the dense fog made air medivac impossible, the ship diverted to a Chinese port (Fuzhou) and evacuated the passenger in the port.  This whole business occured in the early hours of the morning of 17 March -- Happy St. Patrick's Day!

We were now 12 hours behind schedule and well off course along the China coast.  Changes in itinerary and schedule were obviously going to be forthcoming.  On the morning of the 18th, the Captain announced that we would skip Haiphong and proceed directly to Ha Long Bay.  This engendered a J & E crisis.  We were scheduled to leave the Silver Whisper in Haiphong for a six-day tour of northwestern Viet Nam, including Dien Bien Phu and Lao Cai.  With the help of Norman, the ship's hotel director, using the ship's satellite phone, we finally contacted someone at A&K on an emergency number (it was Saturday in Chicago and Sunday in Southeast Asia, of course) and informed them of the change.  They assured us that their Bangkok office would contact us with a revised plan, and not to worry.  (A good rule-of-thumb is to really worry when someone tells you "not to worry.")

Twenty-four hours later, we are in the Tonkin Gulf west of Hainan Island approaching Ha Long Bay and not an email, fax or phone message has arrived from A&K Bangkok or for that matter A&K anywhere!  (Not to worry -- right.)  So, thanks to Norm, it is back on the Sat phone to Chicago and Bangkok.  Finally, as we are anchoring in Ha Long Bay, about 1:00pm 19 March, the ship receives a call from our A&K Vietnamese guide that he and the driver were waiting for us at the pier in Bai Chay, Halong City, and we are to meet them there when we clear customs and a tender is available to take us ashore.  Crisis resolved - sort of.

Somehow the beauty of Ha Long Bay on a junk as in "IndoChine" was lost in the dense fog and mist, but we were anchored, cleared, and disembarked to begin our 6-day, minus one, shore adventures in northwest Viet Nam.  Those adventures are the subject of forthcoming blogs -- aren't you lucky!

  

Ha Long Bay in the Fog

Ha Long Bay in More Fog

 

Bridge at Halong City, Still in Fog

Shanghai - The Future As Now

 Prepared March 28 to 31, 2012, anchored off Ko Samui, Thailand, en route and in port, Port Klang, Malaysia



March 11 and 12, 2012, en route, Shanghai, China: The East China Sea in a Fog

After leaving Hong Kong on the evening of March 10, we turned north northeast for two days at sea through the Taiwan Strait and the East China Sea bound for Shanghai.  The weather was not cooperative, and there were interchanging periods of intense fog and high winds.  The sea state was waves up to 15 feet that turned a large number of our fellow passengers into Kermit the Frog (It is not easy being green!).  Even E, who is rarely late to table, claimed that she was "too tired" for breakfast.  J dined alone in the The Restaurant with only one hardy English couple for company and a very unsteady-looking staff of waiters.  "Waiter, please make every effort not to barf in my coffee." Ah, life on the high seas.

By noon, E was wide awake, and we did the usual at-sea thing of playing bridge and going to tea, and watching an early evening performance of the Artists of Silver Whisper -- "High C's with the Artists of the Silver Whisper."  This was about the third time that they had performed the show (with slight modifications) since we departed Ft. Lauderdale, and as another World Cruise passenger said, "It is lucky we are all so old that we don't remember much from one performance to the next!"  There are some positive aspects to being a "senior" citizen.

Weather conditions did not improve on March 12, but the sea state backed down, probably because we were in the lee of Taiwan Island.  Temperatures continued to fall into the 45 degree F range, and the fog often reduced visibility to less than the distance from the bridge to the bow.  The fog horn was now in almost constant use.  At 11:00am, we had our first bridge lesson with our new bridge instructor, Anne, who reminds one of learning bridge with a Catholic nun, sans ruler -- "these are the rules!"  Anyway, it is quite a different approach from JoAnn and a much more serious business.  However, for J and E, the approach doesn't seem to matter.  We are still in last place and sinking fast.  We are beginning to think that we may have to give up bridge for Old Maid, which may be more within our intellectual reach.

In the evening, we had dinner in The Restaurant with the Cruise Director, Fernando, who is Portugese/Spanish, lives in Turkey, and has traveled the world over. Fernando is an entertaining raconteur, with numerous stories and anecdotes, and five of our fellow passengers.  .  The high point of the evening was a piano concert by Tian Jiang, a Chinese pianist, who was on the 2007 World Cruise, and whose original classic compositions, especially "Shanghai Dreams," is among our favorite modern classical pieces.  So, it was a late evening for us, and we anticipated that when we awoke in the morning, we would be docked at the Shanghai Cruise Terminal.  But, with the thick fog banks, we might still be in the Yangtze River estuary awaiting clearance.


March 13, 14, and 15 Shanghai, China:  Shanghai Surprise

The Bund, circa 1934

The building with the pyramid tower is the Peace Hotel 

March 13:  We were awakened promptly at 8:00am on the 13th by the ship's general announcement system (4-MC in Navy terms).  The Silver Whisper was tied up at the Shanghai Cruise Terminal pier up the Wangpu River and just north of  The Bund.  We were informed to proceed IMMEDIATELY into the Cruise Teminal and clear immigration and customs.  All of this before even a cup of coffee, how inhumane.  If China is the future, the World's motto will be: "Get in line, and get moving!"  We disembarked and walked for at least a half-mile through a deteriorating tunnel (new Chinese construction is sometimes suspect) into an immigration hall that would have done Ellis Island proud.  There, we were scanned, imaged, inspected, stamped, and stamped again.  (The Chinese invented bureaucracy about 1,000 years before Europeans got down from trees.)  Then, it was a half-mile walk back to the ship on the surface where the temperature was in the mid-40s F.  China is not for sissies.

M/v Silver Whisper at Shanghai Cruise Terminal

The Shanghai of the American fantasy (oil for the lamps of China) is gone.  The Bund is still there, as are many of the early 20th Century European-style buildings, but that is about all.  The Bund is now a People's Park with a promenade, fast food restaurants, and tourist shops-- many, many tourist shops.  We took the ship's shuttle into The Bund, and joined our friends Kat and Don for a "Big Bus Tour" of that area and the new Pudong District on the east side of the Wangpu River.  Until 1990, the Wangpu River was the eastern boundary of Shanghai's urbanized area; now, the Wangpu River is at the center.  The bus was double decker, but regretfully, on the upper level, the windows were smallish and didn't give much of a field of view.  Within two hours, we had seen the major "hot spots" of old and new Shanghai, including the entire length of The Bund, the Nanpu Bridge, Oriental Pearl TV Tower, and the innumerable new or under-construction, high-rise financial and hotel buildings that make up Pudong District.  Back to The Bund and the ship's shuttle bus, and lunch on board.

The Bund and Zhongshan Road

Shanghai, Pudong District

This did not exist in 1990!

Oriental Pearl TV Tower

After an early dinner on board, we were herded back on a tour bus to attend a Silversea Experience -- The Art of Acrobatics. But first, there was a half-hour "tour" in evening rush hour traffic through the central, urbanized area of old (western) Shanghai.  In general, J & E are not amused by Chinese acrobatic performances.  Going to another Chinese acrobatic show, which we had seen before and already begged-off on other trips to China, was not high on our list of things to see and do in Shanghai.  Seeing young people assume an unusual pose accompanied by loud cymbal clanging is a "once-is-enough" experience.  This program was Chinese acrobatics, but in the mode of Cirque du Soleil, and was very good.  Even the cymbals had been toned down or maybe Westernized  for the "yang guidze" (foreign devils).  Also, it was mercifully short (60 minutes), and included at least six motorcycles within a sphere for the more macho guests.

Do Not Try This At Home!

The Sphere of Many Motorcycles

The Cast - All Lived!

March 14:  Having slept in; it was a late breakfast, and a short shuttle bus ride to The Bund.  On March 14th, we were on a mission.  In 2009, the Peoples Republic of China released a motion picture to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the founding of the Peoples Republic on October 1, 1949.  We had seen the movie, "The Founding of a Republic," in Guilin shortly after its release in October 2009, and J wanted a DVD copy for his library.  After some inquiries and warnings -- "Don't buy a pirated copy;  no good!" --, we were directed to the government book store on Fuzhou Road for an authentic, "sealed" copy of the DVD.

Departing the shuttle bus, we optained directions to the book store from a Shanghai city guide.  The first problem was to get a taxi to take us to the location.  So, we crossed the street, entered the very fancy Peninsula Hotel by a side door, and acting like guests, proceeded to the doorman and asked for a taxi.  Five Yuan later, a taxi appeared, and we were off to the book store on Fuzhou Road.  The taxi dropped us at a point with a book store on each corner, and on the second try, we found the right one -- a seven-story monster with government and privately- printed books, DVDs, and other media.  We were directed to the 6th floor, where the DVD was found (sealed copy) and purchased for 35 Yuan, about US$7.00.  The pirated copy would have been only 10 Yuan, but it might have been "No Good!"

Next, we walked up Fuzhou Road toward The Bund, and found a branch of the Bank of China.  When J consulted with the Chinese government in the 1980s, he had been paid per diem in local currencies of two type:  Ren Min Bi (RMB) and Foreign Exchange Certificates (Yuan) issued by the Bank of China.  Before leaving Kona, J had discovered a hoard of old (1980s) RMB and Yuan and took them along to see if they still had monetary value.

Even a little branch of Bank of China is not banking with the thugs of BofA.  We were greeted at the door by a uniformed guard who gave us a number, but since we were obviously foreign, he asked us what we wanted, and J showed him this handfull of strange money probably printed before he was born.  This engendered an immediate response. (J's Chinese had probably become painful to the guard's ears.)  The English-speaking bank manager was called, and upon seeing the "old" currency, the young man called his "foreign exchange expert."  The foreign exchange expert, a young woman, looked the bills over.  She told us that the FECs were valid currency, but she would exchange them for new bills because most merchants had never seen FECs and would not accept them.  But, the RMB were demonitized and worthless - see what hoarding gets you!  After the FECs were exchanged for bright, new Yuan notes, the RMB were returned.  J  said that the Bank should keep them for their currency museum, since he was not a currency collector.  After some hesitation and discussion, they were kept by the bank.  J and E were escorted to the door and, with handshakes and bowing all around, left the Bank of China.  Ten minutes after we entered, we were back on Fuzhou Road headed toward The Bund. (Up yours, BofA!)

This was an interesting experience from the perspective of how seniors are treated in China.  Although the old system of ancestor worship and senior family rule has passed, it was clear to both of us that one reason we were so courteously treated by the young bankers was that we were seniors and foreign.  This, of course, is at odds with American values, which treat seniors, at best, as kind, house pets and foreigners as illegal aliens on sight.  Enough polemic!

We walked up Fuzhou Road and crossed to Nanjing Road, which is closed to traffic and is an open, pedestrian shopping mall.  Finally, dragging the hind feet a bit, we reached The Peace Hotel.  Open by the famous English hotelier, Victor Sassoon, in 1929 as the Cathay Hotel, it is a major landmark of  The Bund.  We went into the coffee shop (Victor's Cafe) and had a cappuccino and pastry to recover, and then toured the public spaces of the hotel.  In a city full of 5-plus star hotels, the next time we come to Shanghai, we want to stay here.  It is the history of 20th Century China in one building.  The hotel has a small museum with a  young female curator, who enjoyed describing some of the exhibited items, but it really is fairly self-explanatory from the names of the actors involved.  To cite but a few resident guests who were from the US -- Edgar Snow, Pearl Buck, George Marshall, and Henry Kissinger.  The hotel's "Jazz Band" has been playing in the same bar since 1947.

Nanjing Road Pedestrian Mall

The Apple Store

Nanjing Road Pedestrian Mall

After our tour of The Peace Hotel, we walked along The Bund to the Shuttle Bus stop, and returned to the Silver Whisper.  Very tired from a day of Shanghai on foot.

People's Heroes Monument, The Bund

Bank of China, The Bund

British Consulate (formerly Ligation), The Bund

The International Concession was run from here.

March 15:  Crossing the Waibaidu Bridge (formerly the northwestern boundary between Chinese Shanghai and the International Concessions), we returned to The Bund on Thursday morning to do some shopping.  The weather, which had been cool but sunny the previous two days had deteriorated and it was in the 45 deg F range, cloudy with light rain and mist.  Definitely coat, scarf and hat weather for Hawaii people.

The Waibaidu Bridge Over the Wusong River

The Russian Consulate

The shopping expedition was caused by J's dress shirts suffering from spilled food and laundry fatigue.  Dress shirts are rarely, if ever, worn in Hawaii, so the ones J had brought along on the trip were all ten-plus years of age and in need of replacement.  So, it was off to Brooks Brothers for some dress shirts.  Arriving at the Shuttle Bus terminal, we crossed Zhongshan Road and went into the Peninsula Hotel.  Playing hotel guests again, we approached the concierge and asked for the closest Brooks Brothers store.  We were given the address of a shopping mall on Nanjing Road (West). To the doorman, the taxi, and a longer taxi ride through west Shanghai we went until we arrived at a complex of shopping malls located on all four corners of an intersection.  It was "pick your shopping mall" time.  Of course, we picked the wrong one and spent a half  hour discovering this.  However, the Isetan department store in this center had Hallmark Cards, so we bought a card for an upcoming birthday party.  Not a total waste of time.  After asking at the information desk -- what a sensible thing to do -- we  were directed to the high-end mall next door - wouldn't you know it!

This shopping center was Gucci heaven.  And, there was a Brooks Brothers store, and they had dress shirts on sale.  We were the only shoppers in the store, and the four, yes four, shop girls all tried to wait on us at once.  It was a bit of a circus, but they all contributed to seeing that J had the correct size (large neck, short sleeve length) that was required.  So, three BB dress shirts later, at prices that were more than J used to pay for a suit, we settled the bill.  To recover from this experience, we had a cappuccino at the mall's coffee shop and watched the passing shoppers:  mostly overdressed, young Chinese women.

Shopping finished and the weather improving, we caught a taxi east up Nanjing Road past Remin (People's) Park, now surrounded by high-end automobile dealers (Oh, Mao, please buy me a Mercedes Benz; all the comrades drive BMWs, I must make amends -- apologies, J. Joplin.)  Remin Park was in pre-World War II days the horse racing track of the French Concession.  It has had many incarnations.  During the last years of the Nationalist government, it was where Chiang Ch'ing-guo (Chiang Kai-shek's son) brought "hoarders" and often personnally shot them.  Messy business, but someone has to do it.  Anyway, that is all past, and Remin Park is now a place for tai chi, old men with birds in cages, and a leisurely stroll.

Continuing up Nanjing Road, we drove past mega hotel after mega hotel (all of the usual suspects are in this area) and shopping mall or arcade after shopping arcade.  Who buys all these high-end watches?  Or, for that matter, all the high-end, knock-off watches the little guys in the long coats want to sell you.  "Rolex very cheap."  Did you know, you can put more than 24 watches on one arm?  Finally, we reached The Bund and Zhongshan Road.  Then, it was back to the Silver Whisper, a long afternoon nap, tea, and dinner in the room.  The Silver Whisper departed Shanghai at 11:00pm in heavy fog and mist.

Hong Kong -- Affluence Run Amok

Prepared March 16, 17, and 18, 2012, en route Hai Long Bay, Viet Nam


March 7 and 8, 2012, en route, Hong Kong: The Invasion of HK Hawker


The two-day transit from Singapore to Hong Kong through the South China Sea was largely uneventful, except for a run-in with an example of Asia's aggressive capitalism.  On the morning of March 7, a large, life-sized, standing, multi-colored cardboard sign was present in the passageway two doors down from our suite.  It was advertising the services of "Princeton: Custom Tailors for Ladies & Gents."  A Hong Kong tailor wanting to sell his services to the ship's passengers had encamped in three suites on our deck for the sail from HCMC to Hong Kong..  Those of us whose suites were on Deck 5 were not impressed, to say the least, with our new commercial neighbor (aka, aggressive HK hawker) and his tacky sign.  After fuming and grumbling by the occupants of the deck for about half a day, an opportunity presented itself to complain.

 

Let's Decorate with Hong Kong Ad Art

And You Thought Communist Poster Art Was Bad!

The ship had sent out a questionnaire asking if there was anything that they could do to make our voyage more enjoyable.  It was just the perfect vehicle to let the powers that be know of our dislike of the hawker and his sign.  So, J drafted the following note to the Captain, and E copied it onto the questionnaire form.  It read as follows:

Captain,


I have noted with some chagrin a recent attempt to turn the passageway on which our suite is located into a Hong Kong hawker's alley.   Although, in its place, a hawker's alley is an interesting and colorful tourist attraction, it seems a bit inappropriate for a "luxury" cruise liner.


Whatever individuals do in the confines of their own suites is of no interest to me, but when their noxious signage extends into the passageway, I find it unacceptable.  Please have the sign removed.  Hong Kong signage should be kept in Hong Kong, unless your plan is to turn an entire passageway into an alley market.

The note was duly delivered to Reception.  That night, March 7, we received a letter from the Hotel Director, Norman.  He thanked us for our helpful comments (form letter), but handwritten on the bottom of the note was a comment to the effect that the sign would not appear in the morning.  We all felt that we had won a major victory against the forces of rampant capitalism; however, on the last day we were in HK, March 10, the sign reappeared briefly in the afternoon.  It was gone before a vigilante committee could be mobilized to pitch the thing overboard.

March 8 was our last bridge day with JoAnn and Danny.  In the morning, we played set hands and were critiqued.  In the afternoon, we played duplicate and finished near the middle of the pack.  We will miss JoAnn and Danny both as bridge instructors and as travelling companions.


March 9 and 10, 2012, in port Hong Kong, China:  Welcome to Prada:  Please Take a Number

 

Hong Kong in the Mist

A Car Ferry Converted for Harbor Touring

The Silver Whisper entered Victoria Harbor early in the morning of March 9, and tied up at the Ocean Terminal at 8:00am.  Ocean Terminal is located on the Kowloon side of Hong Kong, next to the Star Ferry Terminal.  Out of our suite window, we had a panoramic view of Hong Kong Island and its office-tower skyline.  However, on this morning, the tops of the highest towers and The Peak were covered by haze; also, a light rain was falling, reducing visibility.

 

M/v Silver Whisper (in port Ocean Terminal), Victoria Harbor

 

Hong Kong Island from Kowloon Side

We had decided not to go on any tours, having been in Hong Kong a number of times.  And, not wanting to go out into the cold, wet streets of Kowloon to shop, we walked around the massive Harbour City Mall that is attached to the Ocean Terminal.  The problem was that if you wanted something common, like Alka Selzer, good luck!  Gucci or Ferragamo shoes were in plentiful supply, but a drug store was not available.  Attention marketing gurus -  A niche has developed for designer anti-acids!  But, it was an interesting walk.  Where else would you see 20+ shops in a row all selling high-end watches (Rolex, Pantera, Omega, etc.).  From the advertising in those stores, it is somewhat confusing as to whether they are selling watches or high-end hookers.  God help the poor sailor who gets confused!  There was also an entire floor dedicated to the sale of childern's toys and clothes.  We really couldn't even figure out where one mall ended and another began.  It was like the old song, "Dem Bones":   Da Ocean Terminal is connected to Da Harbour City, Da Harbour City is connected to Da Ocean Centre, Da Ocean Center is connected to Da Gateway.  And so it goes!  Finally, we did leave the enclosed malls and walked to Star House, which had a Watson's drug store that sold Alka Selzer.  Maybe it is too soon for designer anti-acids.

 

Star Ferry Boat, Victoria Harbor, Hong Kong

If any of you are thinking of coming to Hong Kong for lower prices on designer fashions, forget it.  The prices were, in general, higher than Ala Moana Center in Honolulu, which isn't low-cost by any US standard.  But, it is the only place that we have ever seen with stores like Ferragamo, Prada, Gucci actually crowded with shoppers.  Mostly, the shoppers were tourists from Mainland China.  "I've been to Hong Kong and here's the Prada bag to prove it."  There was a very small number of non-Chinese shoppers, and almost none from Europe or the US.

So, having walked and walked and gauked and gauked for 3 hours, we returned to the ship for lunch and a long afternoon nap.  Then, it was back to the Mecca of Shopping to buy a birthday card and watch the proletariat shop.  The question is:  Would Mao have worn Hugo Boss or Emilio Z?

We returned to the ship for dinner and were seated by a window table, so we could watch the Symphony of Lights, a sound and light show that is part of every evening's entertainment.  High-rise buildings on Hong Kong Island are all colorfully lit, and lasers are used to replace the searchlights of days gone by.  All-in-all, it is a very dramatic way to highlight the towers of Hong Kong.  Supposedly, there is musical accompaniment with the light show, but this could not be heard inside the ship.

March 10 dawned with a high overcast, but visibility was increased.  From the ship, you could see The Peak and the tops of the towers.   The rain had also stopped, so we decided that having given sacrifice to Manon and the shopping mall on the day before, we would investigate the neighborhood outside the mall and visit the Hong Kong Museum of Art.  Leaving the Ocean Terminal, we strolled past the Star Ferry Terminal and the Clock Tower.  Crossing the street, we walked through the newly-opened Heritage Centre, which is the restored and redeveloped former Hong Kong Police Headquarters.

 

Star Ferry Terminal, Clock Tower, and Hong Kong Cultural Center 

  

Heritage Center, Old Observatory

 

Heritage Center, Police Stables

Now, an Upscale Restaurant

 

Heritage Center, Harbor Salute Gun

Crossing under Salisbury Road, we passed through a maze of walkways that connect the HK Cultural Centre and the HK Museum of Art, finally bumping into the Museum of Art's entrance.  The Museum's current building was completed in 1991, with 6 floors covering 17,530 square meters.  After paying our HK$10.00 entrance fee, we had to pick and choose which galleries to view.  We selected the Xubaizhai Calligraphy Gallery, Chinese Antiquities Gallery, and a special exhibition on China Trade Paintings.  Upon seeing the three galleries, we began to suffer museum fatigue.  (If you wish to browse the collections, open the web site http://hk.art.museum.)

 

Hong Kong Clock Tower

Kowloon Star Ferry Landing in Background

 

Hong Kong Museum of Art, Statue Garden

Passing through the Museum Shop, where a t-shirt with HK stamps on it was discovered and purchased, we walked over to the HK Cultural Center and found a Starbucks (very cultural), and sat for a cappucino.  Finishing our coffee break, we crossed over Salisbury Road to the Heritage Centre.  There, E "found" a Shanghai Tang shop, and we joined in what seems to be the major local pastime.  We shopped!  So E got a new outfit, and J got another credit card slip.  Then, it was back to the ship, lunch, and our traditional after-lunch nap.  We sailed at 6:30pm, so there was no time left for more walking about, and by late afternoon, the weather had deteriorated with rain and low visibility.

 

Leaving Hong Kong!

Singapore & Saigon -- Welcome to SEA

Prepared March 11 and 12, en route Shanghai, China, and March 13, 2012, Shanghai, China



March 3, 2012, in port Singapore, Singapore:  Visiting Singapore -- One Shopping Center at a Time

J was still recovering from his cold; it was 88 deg F and 90 percent humidity outside; and, we had just been in Singapore in October 2011. (If you are interested in some of the sites of Singapore, see our posts of October and November, 2011.)  Those factors led us to decide to minimize our on-shore time to shopping for some essential items.  Shopping was easy to do, since the Singapore Cruise Terminal is attached to a very large shopping center.  So, after a late breakfast, and letting all the tour enthusiasts off the ship and onto their buses, we proceeded through Singapore immigration, and walked out of the customs and transport hall directly into the shopping center.

 

Welcome to Shopping Center World - Don't Touch the Flowers!

Our first mission was to find a photo processing shop, to convert a digital file image of Cooper into a 5x7 print and buy a frame, so the old boy could be immortalized in our suite.  This required hunting through many miles of shopping center corridors and descending to the lowest basement next to the MRT (Subway) station, until we finally found a small shop that could make the print and sell the frame.  Mission accomplished!

 

Cooper Printed & Framed

With his friends Bird and Dodo

Next, it was to find some intimate clothing that E needed (the shipboard laundry, as good as it is, put some holes in it), which was more of a process, because prices were not to her liking (considerably above Ross' level).   Finally, a store was found, and the items purchased.  Note:  The days of "cheap" Asia are over.  Prices in Singapore are about the same as in the U.S.  On some items, they are much higher, so forget about coming to Singapore to buy inexpensive cameras, etc.  After E overpaid (in her opinion) for underwear, we went in search of a book store.  The day of the giant book emporiums has ended at this mall as well,  and the only bookstore available was one specializing in paperback romance novels and Japanese comic books.  No success on finding any more Carl Hiaasen for J.

Stopping off at Starbucks for a coffee and blueberry muffin, we watched the passing throng of Saturday shoppers.  Regretfully, the Starbucks we picked was next to a childern's toy store, so we didn't so much see the passing throng as hear the passing throng's screaming children!  Returning to the ship,  we had a late lunch, and spent the rest of the day aboard.  This was a very short, less-than-12-hour stop in Singapore, so there really wasn't time to do much sightseeing or visiting old haunts.

Sailing out of Singapore at night is somewhat surrealistic.  When you enter/leave the cruise terminal and pass Sentosa Island, from horizon to horizon are the anchor lights or running lights of other ships.  For the next hour, your ship manuevers in the outbound-traffic lane to clear the port and the anchored ships waiting for cargoes.

 

Sailing from Singapore

March 4, 2012, en route Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Viet Nam:  Across the South China Sea

A quiet day at sea sailing in calm waters.  As on any sea day,  it is breakfast, bridge and working on the blog.  J has finally caught up with all the events of our crossing from South Africa to Singapore.  This afternoon, we play bridge and miracle-of-miracles, we finished first, north/south.  It was our first bridge win on the cruise to date, and our Trivial Pursuit team also wins.  Some days are better than others.  To celebrate our victories, we join Don and Kat for an Italian dinner in La Terrazza.


March 5 and 6, 2012, in port Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Viet Nam:  Not the City We Knew

 

Welcome to the NEW Saigon (HCMC)

The Port of  Saigon, Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) is located about four hours up the Saigon River from its mouth on the South China Sea near Vung Tau .  The Silver Whisper made this river transit in the early- morning hours of March 5 and was docked in the Port of Saigon, near the old French Customs House (now the Ho Chi Minh Museum) by 8:00am.  Since we were not going on tour, we had a leisurely breakfast.  Then, we took the shuttle bus into the center of Saigon, known as District 1, and were deposited across the street from the Rex Hotel.

 

Port of Saigon, HCMC, Old French Customs House

We had hoped to walked around the area and visit old haunts from the 1990s; however, it did not take us long to discover that they were either gone or under renovation.  Gone were E's favorite dressmaker, and under renovation were both of our favorite coffee houses.   After taking some images of the HCMC City Hall and the newly-renovated Opera House, we walked down Dong Khoi Street, did a little shopping, and  went into the Majestic Hotel for a Vietnamese coffee and cake.  The Majestic Hotel, which dates to the French Colonial Period, has been totally refurbished as it was in 1900.  It is like walking into a scene from the movie "IndoChine."  The coffee was, at best, so-so, but the setting was airconditioned wonderful.

 

Ho Chi Minh City, City Hall

 

HCMC City Hall with National Bird (T-Head Crane)

 

Saigon Opera House

Walking around HCMC in mid-day, 90 plus degree F heat was proving a bit much, so we headed for the restaurant where we were to meet JoAnn, Danny, and 7 other members of the bridge corps for a Vietnamese lunch.  The restaurant, Temple Club, so named because it is across the street from HCMC's Hindu temple,  was selected by JoAnn on the basis of internet research.  It post dates J & E's days in HCMC.  It is located in a portion of a former Chinese merchant's mansion that was probably built in the early 1900s.  The interior portion used by the Temple Club has been restored, and it is like walking into a cool, quiet sanctuary with food and drink after the hot, noisy, crowded streets of central HCMC.

After the other bridge corps members arrived, we were seated at a long table in a private dining room.  Menus were passed out, but after a scan by the corps, it was decided that JoAnn and J would order for everyone, which they did with abandon!  By J's count, 14 dishes (2 of each dish) were ordered, including land snails, calamari, pumpkin soup, lotus salad, lemon grass chicken, steamed fish, etc. etc., plus wine, beer and soft drinks.  The food was delicious and plentiful.  After this, dessert was in order for all, with Vietnamese coffee.  Actually, some of us, who will remain nameless, had two, or maybe three desserts.  And, what did this feast fit for the Imperial Court at Hue cost each of us?? -- US$31.00, including drinks and service charge.  There is no better dining experience than an excellent meal, well served and modestly priced.

After lunch, we walked back to the shuttle bus station and waited for our 15-minute ride back to the Port of Saigon.  We boarded the Silver Whisper for a short, post-feast lie down in our suite.

The early evening was a World Cruise Event --Vietnamese Cultural Impression at the Saigon Opera House.   The Opera House was designed in the 1890s by French architect Ferret Eugene, and had been a focus of French culture during the French rule in IndoChina.    During the late 1990s, the Opera House had been closed and appeared nearly direlict in 1995, but it was under restoration by 1998.  J & E had never had the opportunity to see a performance in the Opera House nor the interior of the building, as restorations were not completed until after they had departed HCMC.

About 6:00pm, we boarded the ever-present tourist bus and drove into Central HCMC to be deposited on the steps of the Opera House, where we were greeted by traditional drumming and young Vietnamese dancers in ao dai (traditional dress).  Then, we were given pupus in the foyer that surrounds the hall and stage.  After about an hour of eating and chatting, we were escorted into the theater itself.  It is totally restored with velvet-covered seats, marble floors, and with plaster bas relief of cherubs, etc.  The authorities in their infinite wisdom decided to install a modern, highly-amplified sound system, which was probably not only unnecessary but totally disruptive of the natural acoustics designed into the hall when it was originally built.  The theater holds about  400 persons, so our 50 plus guests appeared a little lost there.

 

Welcome to the Saigon Opera House

J & E at the Opera

Who is happy and who is not!
Photo by Norman Rafelson, Hotel Director

 

Refurbished Interior of the Saigon Opera House

The performance itself featured a traditional orchestra, beautiful Vietnamese dancers in traditional costumes, and instrumental soloists.  All selections were dumbed down for the western tourists, who probably were perceived by the Vietnamese as incapable of understanding or sitting still through a full-on, traditional, Vietnamese orchestral and folk-dancing concert.  The result of the dumbing down was a performance that seemed amateurish.  A Master of Ceremonies, whose imitation of an American MC, complete with bad jokes, only made things worst.  All-in-all, a potentially elegant, cross-cultural experience was reduced to a series of tired cliches, with little content of merit.  Also, the music blared through an over-amped sound system and clashed with the building's acoustics, making the performance almost painful to listen to.  Finally, after an hour and 30 minutes, we escaped the theater and were back on the buses for the return to the ship.  We never thought that we would ever be glad to get on a tourist bus, but we were after this event!

 

Stage and Dancers  -- Apologies for the Large Objects Blocking View

The morning of March 6 proved bright and sunny, with temperatures in the 90 degree F plus range.  J and E decided that since they had not booked any tour, or had any specific reason to go back into the city, they would stay aboard and enjoy a leisurely day without the heat, noise and crowds of central HCMC.  Lazy, very lazy!  This decision was reinforced by the Silver Whisper's early 3:30pm departure from HCMC.  Since it was 11:00am before we were even organized to think about going ashore, our lack of interest was reinforced by the short time left.

3:30pm came and passed, and we did not sail.  The Captain announced an undefined technical problem had to be resolved before we could depart.  It was 5:00pm before we actually sailed.  (The choice of sailing at 5:00pm was reinforced by the port rule that no ships, except container ships, may begin transit of the Saigon River after 5:00pm, and the thought of spending twelve more hours tied up in Saigon harbor probably did not appeal to the Captain.)  With the assistance of a tug, we turned 180 degrees in the middle of the Saigon River and started the long 4-hour transit downriver to the South China Sea at Vung Tau.

 

Traditional Rice Barge -- Saigon River

 

Port of Saigon, Saigon River View

Our transit downriver revealed the great size of HCMC, which spreads along the Saigon River for much of the first 20 miles.  The river scene gives one a view of new buildings, port facilities and bridges that have been constructed in the last few years.  As darkness settled, we gave up sightseeing from our cabin patio and went to a special dinner for World Cruisers on the pool deck at the Hot Rocks Cafe.  (Hot Rocks is a self-cooking experience on super-heated, granite rocks, not an activity much favored by J & E.  Self-cooking is NOT why we go on cruise ships.)  From the Pool Deck, we could still watch the lights of the towns and ships, as we finished the long river transit and turned north northwest toward Hong Kong and the land of the Dragon Throne.

 

Port of Saigon - New Container Facilities

 

GE Wind Turbines, Port of Saigon

 

Bridge over Saigon River