Saturday, March 31, 2012

Shanghai - The Future As Now

 Prepared March 28 to 31, 2012, anchored off Ko Samui, Thailand, en route and in port, Port Klang, Malaysia



March 11 and 12, 2012, en route, Shanghai, China: The East China Sea in a Fog

After leaving Hong Kong on the evening of March 10, we turned north northeast for two days at sea through the Taiwan Strait and the East China Sea bound for Shanghai.  The weather was not cooperative, and there were interchanging periods of intense fog and high winds.  The sea state was waves up to 15 feet that turned a large number of our fellow passengers into Kermit the Frog (It is not easy being green!).  Even E, who is rarely late to table, claimed that she was "too tired" for breakfast.  J dined alone in the The Restaurant with only one hardy English couple for company and a very unsteady-looking staff of waiters.  "Waiter, please make every effort not to barf in my coffee." Ah, life on the high seas.

By noon, E was wide awake, and we did the usual at-sea thing of playing bridge and going to tea, and watching an early evening performance of the Artists of Silver Whisper -- "High C's with the Artists of the Silver Whisper."  This was about the third time that they had performed the show (with slight modifications) since we departed Ft. Lauderdale, and as another World Cruise passenger said, "It is lucky we are all so old that we don't remember much from one performance to the next!"  There are some positive aspects to being a "senior" citizen.

Weather conditions did not improve on March 12, but the sea state backed down, probably because we were in the lee of Taiwan Island.  Temperatures continued to fall into the 45 degree F range, and the fog often reduced visibility to less than the distance from the bridge to the bow.  The fog horn was now in almost constant use.  At 11:00am, we had our first bridge lesson with our new bridge instructor, Anne, who reminds one of learning bridge with a Catholic nun, sans ruler -- "these are the rules!"  Anyway, it is quite a different approach from JoAnn and a much more serious business.  However, for J and E, the approach doesn't seem to matter.  We are still in last place and sinking fast.  We are beginning to think that we may have to give up bridge for Old Maid, which may be more within our intellectual reach.

In the evening, we had dinner in The Restaurant with the Cruise Director, Fernando, who is Portugese/Spanish, lives in Turkey, and has traveled the world over. Fernando is an entertaining raconteur, with numerous stories and anecdotes, and five of our fellow passengers.  .  The high point of the evening was a piano concert by Tian Jiang, a Chinese pianist, who was on the 2007 World Cruise, and whose original classic compositions, especially "Shanghai Dreams," is among our favorite modern classical pieces.  So, it was a late evening for us, and we anticipated that when we awoke in the morning, we would be docked at the Shanghai Cruise Terminal.  But, with the thick fog banks, we might still be in the Yangtze River estuary awaiting clearance.


March 13, 14, and 15 Shanghai, China:  Shanghai Surprise



The Bund, circa 1934
The building with the pyramid tower is the Peace Hotel 

March 13:  We were awakened promptly at 8:00am on the 13th by the ship's general announcement system (4-MC in Navy terms).  The Silver Whisper was tied up at the Shanghai Cruise Terminal pier up the Wangpu River and just north of  The Bund.  We were informed to proceed IMMEDIATELY into the Cruise Teminal and clear immigration and customs.  All of this before even a cup of coffee, how inhumane.  If China is the future, the World's motto will be: "Get in line, and get moving!"  We disembarked and walked for at least a half-mile through a deteriorating tunnel (new Chinese construction is sometimes suspect) into an immigration hall that would have done Ellis Island proud.  There, we were scanned, imaged, inspected, stamped, and stamped again.  (The Chinese invented bureaucracy about 1,000 years before Europeans got down from trees.)  Then, it was a half-mile walk back to the ship on the surface where the temperature was in the mid-40s F.  China is not for sissies.


M/v Silver Whisper at Shanghai Cruise Terminal

The Shanghai of the American fantasy (oil for the lamps of China) is gone.  The Bund is still there, as are many of the early 20th Century European-style buildings, but that is about all.  The Bund is now a People's Park with a promenade, fast food restaurants, and tourist shops-- many, many tourist shops.  We took the ship's shuttle into The Bund, and joined our friends Kat and Don for a "Big Bus Tour" of that area and the new Pudong District on the east side of the Wangpu River.  Until 1990, the Wangpu River was the eastern boundary of Shanghai's urbanized area; now, the Wangpu River is at the center.  The bus was double decker, but regretfully, on the upper level, the windows were smallish and didn't give much of a field of view.  Within two hours, we had seen the major "hot spots" of old and new Shanghai, including the entire length of The Bund, the Nanpu Bridge, Oriental Pearl TV Tower, and the innumerable new or under-construction, high-rise financial and hotel buildings that make up Pudong District.  Back to The Bund and the ship's shuttle bus, and lunch on board.



The Bund and Zhongshan Road


Shanghai, Pudong District
This did not exist in 1990!


Oriental Pearl TV Tower

After an early dinner on board, we were herded back on a tour bus to attend a Silversea Experience -- The Art of Acrobatics. But first, there was a half-hour "tour" in evening rush hour traffic through the central, urbanized area of old (western) Shanghai.  In general, J & E are not amused by Chinese acrobatic performances.  Going to another Chinese acrobatic show, which we had seen before and already begged-off on other trips to China, was not high on our list of things to see and do in Shanghai.  Seeing young people assume an unusual pose accompanied by loud cymbal clanging is a "once-is-enough" experience.  This program was Chinese acrobatics, but in the mode of Cirque du Soleil, and was very good.  Even the cymbals had been toned down or maybe Westernized  for the "yang guidze" (foreign devils).  Also, it was mercifully short (60 minutes), and included at least six motorcycles within a sphere for the more macho guests.


Do Not Try This At Home!


The Sphere of Many Motorcycles


The Cast - All Lived!

March 14:  Having slept in; it was a late breakfast, and a short shuttle bus ride to The Bund.  On March 14th, we were on a mission.  In 2009, the Peoples Republic of China released a motion picture to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the founding of the Peoples Republic on October 1, 1949.  We had seen the movie, "The Founding of a Republic," in Guilin shortly after its release in October 2009, and J wanted a DVD copy for his library.  After some inquiries and warnings -- "Don't buy a pirated copy;  no good!" --, we were directed to the government book store on Fuzhou Road for an authentic, "sealed" copy of the DVD.

Departing the shuttle bus, we optained directions to the book store from a Shanghai city guide.  The first problem was to get a taxi to take us to the location.  So, we crossed the street, entered the very fancy Peninsula Hotel by a side door, and acting like guests, proceeded to the doorman and asked for a taxi.  Five Yuan later, a taxi appeared, and we were off to the book store on Fuzhou Road.  The taxi dropped us at a point with a book store on each corner, and on the second try, we found the right one -- a seven-story monster with government and privately- printed books, DVDs, and other media.  We were directed to the 6th floor, where the DVD was found (sealed copy) and purchased for 35 Yuan, about US$7.00.  The pirated copy would have been only 10 Yuan, but it might have been "No Good!"

Next, we walked up Fuzhou Road toward The Bund, and found a branch of the Bank of China.  When J consulted with the Chinese government in the 1980s, he had been paid per diem in local currencies of two type:  Ren Min Bi (RMB) and Foreign Exchange Certificates (Yuan) issued by the Bank of China.  Before leaving Kona, J had discovered a hoard of old (1980s) RMB and Yuan and took them along to see if they still had monetary value.

Even a little branch of Bank of China is not banking with the thugs of BofA.  We were greeted at the door by a uniformed guard who gave us a number, but since we were obviously foreign, he asked us what we wanted, and J showed him this handfull of strange money probably printed before he was born.  This engendered an immediate response. (J's Chinese had probably become painful to the guard's ears.)  The English-speaking bank manager was called, and upon seeing the "old" currency, the young man called his "foreign exchange expert."  The foreign exchange expert, a young woman, looked the bills over.  She told us that the FECs were valid currency, but she would exchange them for new bills because most merchants had never seen FECs and would not accept them.  But, the RMB were demonitized and worthless - see what hoarding gets you!  After the FECs were exchanged for bright, new Yuan notes, the RMB were returned.  J  said that the Bank should keep them for their currency museum, since he was not a currency collector.  After some hesitation and discussion, they were kept by the bank.  J and E were escorted to the door and, with handshakes and bowing all around, left the Bank of China.  Ten minutes after we entered, we were back on Fuzhou Road headed toward The Bund. (Up yours, BofA!)

This was an interesting experience from the perspective of how seniors are treated in China.  Although the old system of ancestor worship and senior family rule has passed, it was clear to both of us that one reason we were so courteously treated by the young bankers was that we were seniors and foreign.  This, of course, is at odds with American values, which treat seniors, at best, as kind, house pets and foreigners as illegal aliens on sight.  Enough polemic!

We walked up Fuzhou Road and crossed to Nanjing Road, which is closed to traffic and is an open, pedestrian shopping mall.  Finally, dragging the hind feet a bit, we reached The Peace Hotel.  Open by the famous English hotelier, Victor Sassoon, in 1929 as the Cathay Hotel, it is a major landmark of  The Bund.  We went into the coffee shop (Victor's Cafe) and had a cappuccino and pastry to recover, and then toured the public spaces of the hotel.  In a city full of 5-plus star hotels, the next time we come to Shanghai, we want to stay here.  It is the history of 20th Century China in one building.  The hotel has a small museum with a  young female curator, who enjoyed describing some of the exhibited items, but it really is fairly self-explanatory from the names of the actors involved.  To cite but a few resident guests who were from the US -- Edgar Snow, Pearl Buck, George Marshall, and Henry Kissinger.  The hotel's "Jazz Band" has been playing in the same bar since 1947.


Nanjing Road Pedestrian Mall


The Apple Store
Nanjing Road Pedestrian Mall

After our tour of The Peace Hotel, we walked along The Bund to the Shuttle Bus stop, and returned to the Silver Whisper.  Very tired from a day of Shanghai on foot.


People's Heroes Monument, The Bund


Bank of China, The Bund


British Consulate (formerly Ligation), The Bund
The International Concession was run from here.

March 15:  Crossing the Waibaidu Bridge (formerly the northwestern boundary between Chinese Shanghai and the International Concessions), we returned to The Bund on Thursday morning to do some shopping.  The weather, which had been cool but sunny the previous two days had deteriorated and it was in the 45 deg F range, cloudy with light rain and mist.  Definitely coat, scarf and hat weather for Hawaii people.


The Waibaidu Bridge Over the Wusong River


The Russian Consulate

The shopping expedition was caused by J's dress shirts suffering from spilled food and laundry fatigue.  Dress shirts are rarely, if ever, worn in Hawaii, so the ones J had brought along on the trip were all ten-plus years of age and in need of replacement.  So, it was off to Brooks Brothers for some dress shirts.  Arriving at the Shuttle Bus terminal, we crossed Zhongshan Road and went into the Peninsula Hotel.  Playing hotel guests again, we approached the concierge and asked for the closest Brooks Brothers store.  We were given the address of a shopping mall on Nanjing Road (West). To the doorman, the taxi, and a longer taxi ride through west Shanghai we went until we arrived at a complex of shopping malls located on all four corners of an intersection.  It was "pick your shopping mall" time.  Of course, we picked the wrong one and spent a half  hour discovering this.  However, the Isetan department store in this center had Hallmark Cards, so we bought a card for an upcoming birthday party.  Not a total waste of time.  After asking at the information desk -- what a sensible thing to do -- we  were directed to the high-end mall next door - wouldn't you know it!

This shopping center was Gucci heaven.  And, there was a Brooks Brothers store, and they had dress shirts on sale.  We were the only shoppers in the store, and the four, yes four, shop girls all tried to wait on us at once.  It was a bit of a circus, but they all contributed to seeing that J had the correct size (large neck, short sleeve length) that was required.  So, three BB dress shirts later, at prices that were more than J used to pay for a suit, we settled the bill.  To recover from this experience, we had a cappuccino at the mall's coffee shop and watched the passing shoppers:  mostly overdressed, young Chinese women.

Shopping finished and the weather improving, we caught a taxi east up Nanjing Road past Remin (People's) Park, now surrounded by high-end automobile dealers (Oh, Mao, please buy me a Mercedes Benz; all the comrades drive BMWs, I must make amends -- apologies, J. Joplin.)  Remin Park was in pre-World War II days the horse racing track of the French Concession.  It has had many incarnations.  During the last years of the Nationalist government, it was where Chiang Ch'ing-guo (Chiang Kai-shek's son) brought "hoarders" and often personnally shot them.  Messy business, but someone has to do it.  Anyway, that is all past, and Remin Park is now a place for tai chi, old men with birds in cages, and a leisurely stroll.

Continuing up Nanjing Road, we drove past mega hotel after mega hotel (all of the usual suspects are in this area) and shopping mall or arcade after shopping arcade.  Who buys all these high-end watches?  Or, for that matter, all the high-end, knock-off watches the little guys in the long coats want to sell you.  "Rolex very cheap."  Did you know, you can put more than 24 watches on one arm?  Finally, we reached The Bund and Zhongshan Road.  Then, it was back to the Silver Whisper, a long afternoon nap, tea, and dinner in the room.  The Silver Whisper departed Shanghai at 11:00pm in heavy fog and mist.


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