Sorrento, Monte Carlo & Home

Prepared October 14, 2012 at home Kona, Hawaii

April 27 and 28, 2012 transiting the Mediterranean Sea:  Why are all the ship's deck lights on?

After sailing from Alexandria on the evening of the 26, M/V Silver Whisper set a northwesterly course across a very calm, eastern Mediterranean.  All of the security of the Indian Ocean and Red Sea had disappeared, and suite drapes could be left open, with ship exterior lights lit and pool deck lights ablaze, reflecting on the sea surrounding the ship.  Of course, there were the usual diversions for guests, and most world cruise passengers were involved in farewell functions or packing.  Where did all this stuff come from?

The evening of the 27, there was a special six-course dinner in La Terrazza hosted by a Silversea Executive VP (who had flown in from Monte Carlo), the Captain, and the Hotel Director.  It was just the ticket to top off the 10-plus pounds that J had gained during the cruise.  But, without regard to the calories, it was a wonderful dinner, and the self-congratulatory speeches were mercifully short.

On late afternoon of the 28, we passed through the Strait of Messina between Sicily and Italy.  We had hoped to see the Stromboli volcano that night but the Lipari Islands were shrouded in fog and cloud.  Europe's most active volcano was not visible as we headed northward along the Italian coast toward the Bay of Naples.

The Strait of Messina with Sicily in the Distance

Sadly, no Sicilian port for us.

April 29, 2012 anchored off Sorrento, Italy:  What Euro Crisis -- The Rotten $ to € Exchange Rate?

At 8:00am, we anchored in the Bay of Naples off Sorrento, and after breakfast, we took the ship's tender into the Marina Piccola (Port), followed by a short shuttle bus ride up the sea-front cliff to the Piazza Antiche Mura.  This piazza is outside the remnants of Sorrento's medieval wall, which separates the medieval section of the city from its more modern districts. 

Mt. Vesuvius from the Bay of Naples

Early morning fog obscures all coastal development. 

M/V Silver Whisper Anchored Off Sorrento

We were fortunate to be the only cruise ship at anchor.

There are normally three or four (less, of course, Costa Concordia).

Tourist Map of Sorrento

The red dot is where the shuttle-bus terminal is.

We walked into the old city (which seems to be the focus of most tourist-related activities) only to discover that the main commercial street (Corso Italia) had been blocked off and turned into a pedestrian mall for the day.  Although it was Sunday, most shops were open, and there were puppet shows, carriage rides, and other on-street activities for tourists and local residents.

Sunday Promenade, Corso Italia

Locals, tourists, children and pets taking a stroll in the sun.

Puppet Theater -- Punch and Judy Do Battle

Even puppeteers use teleprompters these days!

  A Peaceful, Shady Rest in Front of the Church

Every place seemed fairly busy, except the churches.

After walking up and down the length of Corso Italia, we turned toward the sea and explored the side streets leading back to the sea cliff and the port.  Those streets were much less congested and led one to understand why Sorrento was such a famous tourist destination.

A Quiet Side Street

No Italian suicide drivers here -- go to Rome.

Cooper's Italian Cousin Catching a Few Rays

Yes, the dog is sound asleep in the middle of the street.

City Fathers Immortalized in Stone

Although not sure who these "founders" might be, it is fairly evident that one of them sent you on your way to the afterlife and the other determined the direction, up or down. 

Hotel's Private Garden with Terracotta Water Bowl

For a mere €600 per night, you may walk in the garden (of course only on the path).

We walked for about an hour in the back streets of the old city and found a number of beautiful private gardens.  Some of those gardens were associated with high-end hotels and some possibly with the city museum, which did not seem to be open.

Local Statue Garden

Yes, there is a plaque, but two years of high school Latin proved worthless. 

By now, our feet were getting tired and the sun was getting higher, so we stopped at a local gelato shop.  We  had wonderful chocolate gelato and espresso.  Thus, we were fortified for the long stairway down the sea cliff face to the port and our tender back to the ship.

Sorrento Sea Cliff and Bath Houses at Port

The stairway is cut into the face of the cliff.

Some of it can be seen in the extreme left center of the image.

Mt. Vesuvius, M/V Silver Whisper and Sorrento Port from Stairway

Taking photos was an excuse to stop and rest on the way down.

After climbing down the stairway and walking past the bath houses, we reached the port and waited in the small park by the port for the ship's tender to arrive.  Back on board, went to lunch on deck to enjoy Spring on the Italian Med. 

Ship's Tender (aka Life Boat) Preparing to Board Passengers

According to tourist literature, the Excelsior Vittoria Grand Hotel in the background is the local five-star establishment.  Italy does have earthquakes -- Right?

After lunch and a nap, we began to pack and sort.  Before we upped anchor and sailed for Monte Carlo, Monaco at 6:30pm, E had completed most of the packing.  Except for moving the bags, J has long been considered non compis mentis when it comes to packing.  This is largely because he is incapable of neatly folding clothing, or anything resembling folding for that matter.

Arrivederci Sorrento

A parting view from the Gulf of Naples off the Sorrento Coast.

April 30, 2012 at sea and in port: The Ligunan Sea and Monte Carlo, Monaco:  The Casino Royale and All That

The night of April 29 and most of the daylight hours of April 30, we transited the channel between Sardinia, Corsica, and Italy, and then the Ligunan Sea.  The weather was overcast, and there was some wind chop, but the main item of interest among the passengers was whether we would pass close enough to Isola del Giglio to see the Costa Concordia aground.  We did not, which was not surprising, since we were aboard an Italian-built and officered ship.

Although there were the normal range of at-sea activities for passengers, most were busy with packing and undertaking such administrative things as closing out shipboard accounts  and redeeming prize points won at bridge, trivial pursuit, bingo, etc. (Anyone got any use for four Silversea logo tee shirts?)  Most passengers were planning to have all these activities finished by the time we docked in Monte Carlo, because they had plans to help the local economy by dressing in tuxedo or evening gown and visiting the famous Casio Monte-Carlo (aka Casino Royale to all you James Bond fans) or dining ashore at one of the white tablecloth restaurants.  Remember, every additional fork in the table setting costs you $25.00 per person.

The plan of the day called for us to dock at 6:00pm along the Quai Rainier III; however, the ship was forced to lay off Monte Carlo for about an hour because another cruise ship was in our assigned berth.  After berthing, it took another two hours to clear the ship, so many of our revelers and gamblers ended up with greatly-reduced time to eat, drink and lose money.

Laying Off Monte Carlo, Monaco

We were to dock where the white cruise ship is moored.

Yachts in Inter-Harbor, Monte Carlo

Rumor had it that some where available at a "reasonable" price.

Casio Monte-Carlo (Aka Casino Royale), Bring Money

Sorry about the t-head crane.  The nouveau-riche have to live somewhere.

Since we had an early departure from the ship to catch a flight in Nice, we did not participate in any Monte Carlo activity.  After dinner, we watched a movie and went to bed early in anticipation of that peculiar form of torture imposed on modern humans -- air travel.

May 1 and 2, 2012 traveling by air: Nice, Frankfort, San Francisco, and Kona:  Air Travel Never Gets Any Better!

Since our flight departed Nice, France for Frankfort, Germany at 9:00am on May 1, we were up,  breakfasted, and disembarked by 6:30am for the 45-minute car ride from Monte Carlo to Nice.  The drive through the coastal mountains was very enjoyable, and our female driver gave us some local perspective about being a working person in the land of the rich and famous.  It can be summed up as "not so great."

Disembarking M/V Silver Whisper for the Last Time (World Cruise 2012)

It was very early in the morning and had been raining.

Monte Carlo Quay - Waiting for Our Ride to Nice!

How could J smile this early in the morning -- too much coffee?

Photo by Norman Rafelson, M/V Silver Whisper

The flight from Nice to Frankfort was uneventful; however, transiting the Frankfort airport from the intra-Europe to the intercontinental flights left one feeling like a rat in a maze.  J ran afoul of German bureaucracy when the immigration authority in the form of what appeared to be a 12-year-old, female bureaucrat decided that J's passport did not have a proper entry stamp into the Euro Zone.  The entry stamp had been applied by Italian authorities in Sorento, where we first entered the Euro Zone.  This officious young lady immediately declared that J was illegally in Germany.  To which J replied that he did not particularly mind--he would stay for a while at the German Government's expense.  This was not well received.  In the meantime, E was in a parallel queue, where the immigration agent was listening intently to the banter between J and the young lady.  That agent finally intervened, pointing out the passport page where the Italians had put the stamp in E's passport.  On inspection, this was confirmed in J's passport (although very faint).  With a certain amount of grumbling, J was stamped out of Germany (Europe) to which he could not help but comment to the German officials "You are going to have to spend more money to buy ink for the Italians."  The reaction was not positive.  

We made the Lufthansa Frankfort/San Francisco flight with maybe 10 minutes to spare, and got the Teutonic look from the stewardess that is reserved for barbarians from the New World who cannot be prompt.  Anyway, that flight was uneventful, and we arrived on time at SFO expecting to be met by a Silversea representative to take us to a hotel for an overnight.  It didn't happen.  Apparently, J misunderstood who was to make arrangements for the overnight in SFO, and only by luck (most hotels were fully booked) did we find a room in a nearby airport  hotel.  J got to write on the blackboard 250 times -- Always check in-transit hotel arrangements!

The next morning, May 2, we had a 10:00am United flight from SFO to Kona.  It was uneventful, but our luggage (for reasons only United's god might know) went to Las Vegas!  Why is it every time you get off a United flight you feel you should clean the soles of your shoes?  The good news is that J's brother and his wife met us at the Kona airport and all ended well!

It was a wonderful trip, and we plan to do it again in 2013, so watch this spot for J & E's continued adventures in the South Pacific, New Zealand, Australia and elsewhere.  And remember, always carry hand sanitizer for your shoe soles when you fly United.

"That's All Folks!"

And This Piece of Paper Certifies It!