French Polynesia – Part 2

January 13, 2013 en route to Rangiroa, Tuamotu Islands, French Polynesia – Another Gray Day at Sea

Upping anchor and sailing from Nuku Hiva on the afternoon of January 13, we set course west by southwest for our next port-of-call – Rangiroa.  Although we were south of the equator and in the tropics, the sun continued to refuse to shine.  So it was another cloudy, squally day, just like the ones we had experienced on our way southwest from Los Angeles.  Weather limited on-deck activities so sun birds were restless.  However, those of us who mainly remained inside the hull (except for morning walks) were not nearly as concerned.  Listening to lectures, playing cards, and trivial pursuit do not require sunny weather.

Given the continuing string of gray days and choppy seas, all of us were ready for tropical sunshine on reaching Rangiroa atoll.

January 14, 2013 anchored off Rangiroa, Tuamotu Islands, French Polynesia – Wet, Very Wet!

Rangiroa is not technically an island, but an atoll, which consists of a surrounding coral reef, small, low-lying coral islands (motu), and an inner lagoon.  Rangiroa is a large atoll, with a lagoon covering 750 sq. mi. encircled by a coral reef with over 240 motu rising from the reef.  The generally-accepted geological explanation for atolls is that they are remnants of an ancient volcanic island that has eroded and/or undergone submergence, leaving only the coral reef that encircled the island.

Silver Whisper entered Rangiroa lagoon through the Avatoru pass in the coral reef and dropped anchor near the village of Avatoru.  The ~3,000 persons who live on the atoll largely dwell in two villages, Avatoru and Tiputa.  Ship’s tenders took us ashore about five miles from Avatoru, at the Ohotu pier.

Silver Whisper Entering Rangiroa Lagoon

Avatoru Pass is in the background.

Village of Avatoru from Lagoon

The church is the most visible building on the atoll.

Silver Whisper Tender at Ohutu Pier

Where is the sun?  The sky keeps getting darker and darker.

J and E had decided not to participate in any of the ship’s tours and went ashore after the tour rush at about 10:30am.  It was another overcast, gray day, but we decided to risk getting wet to have a walk on terra firma and see some of the atoll.  Near the pier were some handicraft vendors and local musicians in temporary tents.  There was also a café.  Rangiroa is known for its cultured black pearl industry, and the handicraft vendors sold locally-made jewelry, using mother of pearl from the oyster shells and the black pearls.  (Local use of black pearls indicates that some of the pearls must have fallen off the back of the boat.)

Handicraft Vendors’ Tents Near Pier

Nothing makes you more interested in handicrafts than a dry tent.

Leaving the pier area, we walked along the road, past local homesteads with the usual collection of tropical fruit trees, children, dogs, and feral chickens.  We had just reached the main road when a rain squall broke, and we were caught in a tropical downpour complete with thunder and lighting.  (Luckily, Cooper was not with us, or we would still be hunting him.)  We took shelter with two other Silversea couples in an abandoned grass shack (next to an abandoned, formerly lived-in van) and waited for the rain to abate.  Finally, after about fifteen minutes, it did.  This was fortunate, because by that time, the palm fronds of the grass shack’s roof were acting like a sieve.  So, it was back on the road and off toward the pier.

The Main Road with Dog

The dog was in no danger.  Every animal on the atoll was basically “free range.”

Local General Store

No shortage of parking.

Coconut/Copra Plantation

Rule 1:  Do not run under the coconut trees in a squall.  Bonk! Dead!

Rain Squall Coming Ashore

It got very wet and windy about 60 seconds after this.

By the time we reached the pier, even with an umbrella, we were soaking wet; however, we were not alone.  There were about 25 passengers and crew standing around waiting for the next tender looking very wet, bedraggled, and very cold.  To stay entertained, we went over to look at the handicraft vendors’ offerings.  (It was also under a tent and fairly dry.)  E was especially taken by the mother-of-pearl/black pearl necklaces and helped the local economy with a purchase.

After about 30 minutes, the tender arrived just in time for the rain to stop.  We were packed aboard like the half-drowned rats we were, and taken back to the Silver Whisper, where we had a hot shower and a hot lunch.  It is hard to believe that you could be so cold in the tropics.

Rain squalls continued the rest of the day, and the sun was nowhere to be seen.  Those who had gone on tours to other motu, or snorkeling in the lagoon, returned looking as soaked as those of us land lubbers who had simply tried to take a walk.  At 5:00pm, we sailed for our next destination in French Polynesia, Moorea.  Still looking for the sun.

French Polynesia – Part 1

January 12, 2013 anchored off Nuku Hiva, Marqueses Islands, French Polynesia – The Real Hawaiian Homelands -- Maybe

Another half-day at sea and at 1:00pm, we finally anchored in Taiohae Bay (a sunken volcanic crater), Nuku Hiva.  Nuku Hiva is not an atoll but was formed by explosive volcanic activity, so it does not have a coral fringe or long, sandy beaches. 

It was our first sighting of land since leaving LA six and one-half days previously.  The weather was still not being very cooperative.   It had rained earlier in the day.  By the time we were cleared to go ashore, it had stopped raining; however, there was no sunshine, only horizon-to-horizon, low-lying, intermittent clouds.  The sun birds on board were becoming ever more restless about the continued gray skies and rain squalls.   At least we were close enough to the Equator that the temperatures were into the 80s but  so was the humidity.

Land Ho!

Nuku Hiva Island from seaward.

Entering Taiohae Bay

The bay is a volcanic crater full of sea water.

We were looking forward to visiting Nuku Hiva, because current theories on the origins of Polynesians in the Hawaiian Islands hold that Hawaii was populated from the Marqueses by peoples sailing voyaging canoes (similar to the Hoku Lea) to the island of Hawaii (The Big Island).  Of course, a two-hour visit to one small island does not confirm or deny such a theory, but it was interesting to visit Nuku Hiva and walk the land that may have been the Hawaiians’ ancestral home.

During the War of 1812, American forces occupied Nuku Hiva and built a stockade on a small hill on the bay.  This stockade was named “Fort Jefferson,” and it was manned by American forces for only 24 months.  Then, it dawned on the Americans that the British had absolutely no interest in challenging the American presence on the island.  Probably mostly out of boredom, the Americans packed up and sailed away, having never fired a shot at the British lion.  For the mouse to roar,  there must be someone to hear!

Site of Fort Jefferson from Taiohae Bay

Luckily, Francis Scott Key wasn’t with this expedition.

Tendering ashore, we began our self-guided tour of Taiohae, the largest village on Nuku Hiva and the French administrative center for the Marqueses Islands. At the Marina Pier, where the tender tied up, we were greeted by local dancers and musicians.  In addition, there were a number of other local musicians, dancers, fishermen, and vendors standing around watching our arrival.  It was all very casual; the ship’s passengers seemed to provide that day’s entertainment for the locals. 

Local Greeting Committee

Excellent drumming, very casual and laid back.

The village is spread along one side of a single, paved road running by the bay for a little over a mile.  There is a cargo pier, French administrative center, post office, police station, and two churches, one catholic and one protestant.  The tourism infrastructure consisted of several pensions and a half dozen restaurants.  Nuku Hiva may be on the tourism map, but it is on the very edge.

The Beach and Beach Road

Not a lot of congestion here.  The horse is real.

Local Infrastructure

The local canoe club seems to be alive and well.

We walked along the sidewalk next to the road, waving to passengers in pickup trucks and offering good afternoon to locals walking along the road.  Spaced along the road were a number tikis (most of which  probably were recently carved).  The original tikis were most likely destroyed by early missionaries, as happened to many of their brothers on islands throughout Polynesia.

Tikis – Ancient and Modern

At least one (upper left) seems to have almost escaped the missionaries.

There were also local handicrafts on display at a large handicraft market near the pier (The Marqueses are renowned for wood carving).  We were not tempted to drag a piece of carved wood into our suite for the three-plus months remaining on the cruise.

The highlight of our tour was a visit to the protestant church.  We chose it because it was closer to the pier than the Catholic Church and the furthest point that we got.  There were many things that reminded us of rural Hawaii, especially Kauai, including free-range, feral chickens and poi dogs.  At the pier, we watched local families loading offspring, pets and produce into their pickups for the ride up country.

Protestant Church, Nuku Hiva

One of two churches, Catholic and Protestant—Christians have arrived.

Local Animal Life

Feral Chicken, Poi Dog, and Goat Kid in truck.

Two hours after we came ashore, it was back on the tender for the return to the Silver Whisper.  Luckily, we had timed our visit so that we avoided the rain that began shortly after our return to the ship.  At 6:00pm, we sailed for Rangiroa atoll in the Tuamotu Islands.

Into the South Pacific

January 6 to 11, 2013 en route to Nuku Hiva, Marqueses Islands, French Polynesia – On the Course of the Leaky Tiki

Departing Terminal Island and the Port of Los Angeles on the evening of 5 January, we set course south, down the San Clemente Channel.  Off San Diego, Silver Whisper came to a heading of ~225 Degrees (South West).  The ship would vary only slightly from this heading for the next 6 and one-half days.  For almost all of the passengers, including J and E, this would be their longest, continuous, at-sea period in all their years of cruising.

To accustom world cruise passengers to the next four months of over-indulgence, Capt. Corsaro and Hotel Director Norman Rafelson invited all to cocktails and dinner on the January 6.  Not that most of us required much training (or lacked either eating or drinking skills).  The dinner in La Terrazza was a tour de force for the ship’s Executive Chef, Anne Marie.  When it was over, most of us could barely waddle down to the Venetian Lounge (ship’s theater) for the evening’s performance.

The Invitation to Cocktails and Dinner

A free pass to overindulge.

The Dinner Menu

Note the authentic food stain in upper right.

Almost immediately after leaving the US’ west coast, the weather turned cloudy, and we were not to see much sunshine for the next six and one-half days.  This was not received well by the open deck-loving, sun-worshipping component of the passengers, which seemed to be almost all of the passengers except J & E.  Also, although not exceptionally rough weather, the ship rolled slightly most of the time from either northeast or southeast swells, which made some problems for passengers given to sea sickness.

On January 7, we participated in our first formal evening of the cruise, so J and E donned our regalia and sallied forth to the Captain’s Welcome Reception, complete with reception line.  We suspect that the only places where reception lines still exist are political and diplomatic functions, and on board cruise ships!  Again, the reception was followed by another opportunity to over indulge in food and drink.

During sea days, we attended lectures, played team trivia, cards and wrote on the blog.  The enrichment lectures were exceptionally good.  They were presented by three excellent speakers – Thomson Smillie (history of opera), Michael Buerk (BBC Reporter), Terry Waite (Hostage and Hostage Negotiator), and Jon Fleming (Geography and History of the ports we visit).  Smillie, Buerk, and Waite only lectured until New Zealand, but fortunately, Jon Fleming will be on board as our destination consultant for the entire world cruise. 

Team trivia is a raucous 45 minutes of 10 teams answering Trivial Pursuit questions in hopes of getting the most correct answers, thereby winning prize points (believe it or not, prizes are worthless).  With the exception of two team members, our trivia team has been together since the 2012 world cruise.  John, the team’s leader, had acquired Italian-green ball caps with I Pirate di Corsaro (Pirates of Corsaro) inscribed above the visor.  On January 9, we invited Capt. Corsaro to join our team, and John presented him with his “official” team hat.   After accepting, the Captain cited urgent business on the bridge and left us to play the game (very smart move on his part).

Capt. Corsaro with Trivia Team

Proudly wearing green ball caps.

January 9 was another reception and formal night.  This event was to honor Venetian Society Members on the cruise.  The Venetian Society is made up of cruisers who have cruised more than once with Silversea.  On a world cruise, this is almost everyone on board.  So, it was back in the evening gown and tux for another reception line and another attempt to cause havoc by spilling food on your finery.  J has discovered the purpose of a cummerbund.  It is to trap small particles of food and bread crumbs missed by the table napkin!  Small voice:  “Stop tucking that napkin in your shirt collar.  Who do you think you are, the Godfather?”

J and E Dressed to Spill

Friends remain anonymous due to poor image.

On the night of January 10, Silver Whisper crossed the Equator ~800 miles south, southeast of Hawaii.  Since J and E were shellbacks numerous times over, we did not participate in the ceremonies on deck on January 11.   However, King Neptune (suspected in alter ego to be Cruise Director Fernando) and his mermaid, aka Silversea entertainer Melissa, appeared; and a number of pollywogs were judged unfit for “shellbackdom” and went into the swimming pool.

Shellback Certificate

Suspect King Neptune's signature is a forgery.

By the sixth night, January 11, most passengers and crew were looking forward to Nuku Hiva and going ashore.  Six days at sea had proven enough for most and more-than-enough for some.  An overheard comment by one passenger, stating that this was the longest time that they had spent with their spouse in the same room since their honeymoon, summed up a number of passengers’ experience on the voyage from LA. 

Welcome to LA

January 5, 2013 in port Los Angeles, CA – Visiting Cloud Cuckoo Land

Silver Whisper entered the Port of Los Angeles at 7:00am and made its way past innumerable container cranes and thousands of stacked containers. (The Chinese are coming; the Chinese are coming.  Correction – the Chinese are here!)  At 8:00am, we tied up at the Terminal Island Cruise Pier in San Pedro.  And, began immediately to disembark passengers and their luggage, take on fuel and load a total of seven containers of stores for our transit to the South Pacific.  This was exhausting work for the crew, who had already spent a goodly portion of the night collecting passenger baggage to off load.

  

Port of Los Angeles

Refueling from a fuel barge.

Because we were entering the United States from a foreign port, all passengers had to undergo US Customs and Border Protection procedures.  We were not exempt, even though we were remaining on board for the world cruise.  The US should change its motto from “The Land of the Free and Home of the Brave,” to “The Land of the Paranoid and Home of the Fearful.”  After inspection, we could not embark the ship again until everyone had been cleared and the ship inspected.  The options were to spend several hours confined in the Terminal Island Cruise Terminal (which reminded you of Ellis Island with a fresh coat of paint), or you could take a Silversea-provided bus to visit Beverly Hills and shop on Rodeo Drive.

Harry Bridges Park, Terminal Island, Los Angeles

Files revealed that Harry was a colonel in the KGB – only in LA.

Whether spending the day on Ellis Island West or going by tour bus across LA to Beverly Hills, neither option appealed to J and E.  However, no other choices presented themselves.  So, we elected to visit that temple of Mammon, “Rodeo Drive.”  There were about ten passengers who made the same choice.

At 9:00am, we were collected into a group and were shepherded by ship’s tour staff through Customs and Border Protection onto a tour bus (yet again), and off for a 45-minute freeway ride across LA.  It was only a 45-minute trip because it was Saturday morning, and Angelinos hadn’t woken up or got their cars started yet.

Beverly Hills, although less the home of movie stars, is still one of the wealthiest cities that make up greater Los Angeles.  It looked like it did in the Beverly Hills Cop movies.  (That is strange.)  You were left with the feeling of stepping back in time to 1930s LA and the world of Dashell Hammett.  Every lawn appeared to be cut with scissors, and no tree would dare to drop a leaf to the ground.  How Beverly Hills’ appearance is maintained in the post-illegal, immigrant era is difficult to explain.

Beverly Hills

Reality stopped here.

Beverly Hills City Hall

1930s Spanish Colonial revival lives on.

We were discharged from the bus next to the Louis Vuitton shop at the intersection of Rodeo Drive and Dayton Way.  It was an easy place to find because of the statue of a nude, headless woman in the median (it’s LA, what did you expect; and it was probably created by a Taliban terrorist!)

Welcome to Rodeo Drive

Headless women statue -- no more needs to be said.

Off we went to spent four hours in the land of the super-affluent.  Actually, when we arrived at our bus stop, it was 10am; the shops had just opened; and there were only a few scraggly tourist and homeless people on the street.  You could tell the homeless.  They were the ones with shopping carts.  After walking several blocks away from Rodeo Drive, we found a Rite Aid drug store and bought some greeting cards and other sundries.  With the exception of coffee and dessert, that was all we bought in the Mecca of capitalism.

 

Rodeo Drive before Traffic and Tourists

Come early, miss the rush!

Rodeo Drive in the Early Morning (10:00am)

Only people moving are shop workers and the homeless.

We walked down Rodeo Drive and played “look pigeon, see,” but we only entered Brooks Brothers to see about a formal dress shirt, which they did not have in J’s size.   We stopped at Escada in the Beverly Wilshire Hotel to look at a dress for E; however, the sales staff was right out of “Pretty Woman,” and so we departed without further ado.

Beverly Wilshire Hotel

Not an architectural masterpiece.

By 1:00pm, Rodeo Drive was congested with a traffic jam of the world’s most expensive cars, and the sidewalks were crammed with tourists gawking at other tourists hoping they would be movie persons.  Strangely enough, there were not even many overdressed women carrying yappy little dogs in their oversized purses.  This was sad to J, who was contemplating dog napping as the first step in having the ship prepare that wonderful Kung Pao dish.

To avoid the tourist mob, we walked up Beverly Drive and found a wonderful chocolate shop (Vosges Haut-Chocolat) which featured numerous chocolate delicacies.   We declared lunch “dessert.”  J had a cappuccino with a chocolate chip cookie the size of a pancake, and E had hot chocolate and a brownie about the same size.  This “lunch” was our one concession to Beverly Hill’s decadence!  Afterward, we continued our walk about the area, visiting Barney’s New York.    We returned to the designated bus stop at 3:00pm for the freeway trip  back to Terminal Island.

After passing again through Customs and Border Protection, we boarded the ship.  Because of the extensive provisioning required for the world cruise and the South Pacific, Silver Whisper did not depart Terminal Island until 6:00pm. 

Adios Mexico

January 1, 2013 en route Cabo San Lucas, Mexico – Recovery Day

After the extensive New Year’s Eve partying, it was no surprise to find ourselves breakfasting alone in the Restaurant on New Year’s Day.   What was surprising was learning that E had won a door prize (in absentia) at the New Year’s Eve dinner.  It was a magnum of Dom Perignon 2003.  Since we do not drink, and were not planning any ship’s christening in the immediate future, we gave the bottle to Gilbert (the Restaurant manager), thereby making a friend for life.

The rest of the sea day passed quietly with good weather and our trivia team continuing its winning streak, naturally all because of our team’s lucky Italian green ball caps inscribed “I Pirati di Corsaro.”

January 2, 2013 anchored off Cabo San Lucas, Mexico – Where Southern Californians Go to Be in Southern California

By 8:30am, Silver Whisper had anchored off Cabo San Lucas’ boat basin, and shortly after 9:00am, we boarded a tender for the short run into the pier.  Walking through a shopping Mecca, we reached our tour bus for the tour of the day, entitled “Coastal Highlights.”  Our continued masochistic participation in bus-based tours was because of Mexico’s recent history of gun violence and other assorted criminal entertainments.  This did not inspire confidence in our usual approach to going about town on our own.  We figured (possibly wrongly) that there was safety in numbers, although a tour bus is a very large target.  Also, we are too old to fight or run!

Cabo San Lucas from the Sea of Cortez

This is more like Redondo Beach than the Mexican Riviera.

Our first stop was a glass factory, where traditional Mexican glassware and ornaments were made.  We watched as a glass elephant was formed and glass flowers were blown.  It was interesting, but not all that unique, and it was not Murano Island.

Glass Factory, Hand Blowing an Elephant

It looks easy, but probably is not.

Glass Factory, Hand Blown Glassware

Where is el toro?

Then, it was back on the bus and on to our next stop at a scenic overlook for photos, and our first free Margarita of the day.  (The tourism gods must have migrated here from Acapulco.)  The overlook, which was incorporated into a largely al fresco restaurant, did give good views of the southern tip of the Baja California Peninsula, with el Arco (a hole in the rock) and the entire Cabo San Lucas area.

El Arco

Foreground, the Sea of Cortez; Background, the Pacific Ocean

Bay of Cabo San Lucas

Look!  There is room for more development.

Our next activity was to visit the old town of San Jose del Cabo, which was the original administrative center for the southern tip of Baja California.  Actually, San Jose has buildings more than ten years old, and they are occupied.  (Cabo San Lucas has suffered from the Great Recession.)  According to our guide, the town is now largely an artist colony, and there are large numbers of tourist-oriented art galleries operating (motto: “The tourist and his/her money are soon parted.”).  E and J spent most of their time visiting the local city hall and the church (Mission of San Jose de Cabo Anuiti).

San Jose del Cabo City Hall

Even the clock in the clock tower worked.

San Jose del Cabo City Hall, Interior Mural

More evidence of the continuing mural tradition in Mexico.

San Jose del Cabo City Hall, Interior Mural (Continued)

Ride with Poncho Via and Viva Zapata.

San Jose del Cabo, Bandstand and Plaza

Regretfully, no band concert at noon.

San Jose del Cabo, Mission San Jose de Cabo Anuiti

One of the early California Missions.

San Jose del Cabo, Mission of San Jose de Cabo Anuiti, Interior View

Think of it, 16^th Century monks carrying those plastic statues and LED lights all the way from Spain.

After walking around San Jose del Cabo for about an hour, it was back on the bus, return to Cabo San Lucas, and visit our final destination – a “typical” Mexican cantina, i.e., typical gringo tourist trap.  Here, as is Mexican tradition, we were offered another Margarita in a plastic cup and serenaded by the morning shift of mariachi singers.  FYI, the song, “Guantanamae,” is not Mexican but Cuban.  The cantina’s décor was a tribute to all types of Mexican handicrafts and folk art.   On escaping this cultural experience, we were taken across the street to view various types of cactus and aloes from which Margaritas are made.

Cabo San Lucas, Interior “Typical” Mexican Cantina

Do morning, evening or night Mariachis get higher pay?

Cabo San Lucas, Museum

We DID NOT get to go there!  Note: Chinese Christmas Tree.  They are everywhere!

During this entire tour, J was looking for a watch shop or other place to buy a cheap watch. His travel watch of 7 or 8 years had packed up, and he was getting tired of checking his bare arm for the time.  Although the tour drove pass those pillars of American commerce, Wal-Mart and Costco, there was no stopping.  So, J was forced to look at the duty-free store on the tender pier.  Regretfully, no cheap watches, but J gave in and spent more than his usual $19.95 for a watch.  He is still trying to learn how to take it on and off, and who knows what will happen when February 28 arrives.

Mr. Pelican Contemplates a Fish

Actually, he is thinking you can sell these gringoes anything.

Back on the ship, we had a late lunch, nap and watched the Silver Whisper up anchor and turn to seaward for a two-day cruise north to Los Angeles.

January 3 and 4, 2013 en route to Los Angeles, CA – Cruising Toward Okie Paradise

Departing Cabo San Lucas, we spent two days cruising northward along the Pacific Ocean coasts of Baja California and Southern California to reach Los Angeles -- America’s answer to Bollywood.  Most of our time was devoted to attending lectures, reading, writing the blog, and, of course, eating.  After the Panama Canal, J began his morning, 30-minute walks on deck, followed by a cappuccino and chat with his friend, John, who is the trivial pursuit team leader.  It is hoped that this walking will offset the consumption of an extra 2,000 calories a day from the ship’s meals.  (Well, one can rationalize almost anything!)

On the night of January 3^rd, Captain Corsaro and Hotel Cruise Director Norman Rafelson, aka Norm, invited World Cruise guests (staying on after Los Angeles) to cocktails and dinner in La Champagne.  Since J and E do not drink, we rarely go to La Champagne, which serves wine-paired dinners for an additional charge.  So, attending a dinner in La Champagne was a treat for us.  The dinner proved to be excellent (menu shown below).

2013 World Cruise Dinner Menu

So much food.  So little time.

January 4^th was packing day for passengers leaving the ship in Los Angeles.  By evening, halls outside suites were full of colorfully-tagged luggage, and departing passengers were trying to deal with departure issues, such as customs and immigration forms, passports and flights home.  The crew was also very busy, organizing luggage disembarkation and preparing for provisioning the ship for the next cruise segment to the South Pacific.

Fun in Acapulco

December 31, 2012:  In port Acapulco, Mexico – Beep, Beep, Bang, Bang

 Sunrise Acapulco Bay

This is the view when you walk on deck at 7:00am.

Acapulco from Acapulco Bay

The city is deceptively tranquil in this image.

After an overnight sail from Huatulco, Mexico, Silver Whisper docked at the Terminal Maritima de Acapulco--across from El Fuerte de San Diego, built in 1616 by the Spanish to protect Acapulco Bay, and, more specifically, the treasure brought by the Manila Galleons, from attack by English, Dutch, and French privateers.  Regretfully, the fort (and the Museo Historico de Acapulco that is inside the fort) was closed.  Rats and Curses!

Instead of an easy walk across a pedestrian bridge and emersion into the early history of Spain in the Pacific, it was into the Tour Bus and out on the congested streets of Acapulco.  By electing to go on a ship’s tour, entitled “Sights of Acapulco & Cliff Divers,” we were destined to spend a large portion of the day sitting in monumental traffic jams created by the enormous number of Mexican tourists over from Mexico City to celebrate the New Year.  These traffic jams were made even more exciting by approximately every tenth vehicle being a pickup truck carrying one form or another of Mexican Security Forces.  Nothing makes traffic jams more exciting than sitting next to a pickup truck, mounted by a machine gun and carrying six or eight 18-year-olds armed with assault rifles.  (The city looked like an NRA convention.)  This probably contributed to the Silver Whisper being only the ninth cruise ship to dock in Acapulco in all of 2012.  However, the armed security forces did allow our guide a continuing topic of conversation -- reassuring us that Acapulco was “very safe.”  Actually, J could not help thinking that these 18-year-olds were probably descendants of the Federales,  in “Treasure of the Sierra Madre,” who reassured Humphrey Bogart “I don’t need no stinkin’ Badge.”

 View from Inside the Tourist Bus

Guide is saying, "Acapulco is perfectly safe."

Our first-intended stop was at the Mirador Hotel on La Quebrada to watch Acapulco’s cliff divers try to commit suicide.  We were taken to front row seats and given a free drink to watch this spectacle.  Our guess is that Acapulco’s reputation as a “party town” inspires tour operators to provide free Margaritas at every major stop.  However, it may be based on the thinking that, given enough alcohol, tourists won’t care or know that all he has done is ride around from traffic jam to traffic jam in a 60-passenger tour bus.

Cliff diving was the signature event of Acapulco during its prime as an international tourist destination.  Especially for the LA movie set.  Think John Wayne, Frank Sinatra, etc., etc.  Basically, young men jump from a cliff top into a shallow bay at the base of the cliff.  It is interesting but repetitive, and somewhat like a bull fight.  What everyone is waiting for is the matador (or diver) to make a mistake and splat.  But, this is highly unlikely with cliff diving.  Divers have a union and enforce strict training guidelines.  So, about six or seven times a day, the divers do their thing, and the tourists wait, drink and hope.  After an uneventful 30 minutes of cliff diving, it is back on the bus and off to our next stop.

Acapulco, Cliff Diving Made Easy

Step One:  Climb the Cliff.

 Acapulco, Cliff Diving Made Easy

Step Two:  Offer a prayer and stare at the water.

Acapulco, Cliff Diving Made Easy

Step Three: Prepare to dive and check for birds.

Acapulco, Cliff Diving Made Easy

Step Four: Dive -- Will it be splash or splat?

Our “next stop” was actually the last of six stops (five in traffic) of about 10 to 15 minutes each.  The planned stop was on the cliffs at Punta Guitarron and only differed in that we were given a free drink (again) and provided an opportunity to photograph Acapulco Bay.  We had spent an hour and a half travelling Costera Miguel Aleman Boulevard from one side of the bay to the other, covering a distance of less than 5 miles.  Burros of Spanish times could have done better than that!

Acapulco Bay from  Punta Guitarron

Where is the Manila Galleon?

Another 45 minutes of stop-and-go traffic and we arrived at the high point of the trip -- a drink at the “famous” Acapulco Princess Hotel.  This is a large, destination resort operated by Fairmont Hotels.  In its heyday during the 1970s, it might have been worth a short visit, especially if you were a celebrity-stricken teenager.  Its high point, according to our guide, was that Howard Hughes died here.  Now, the resort is just another very large, slightly seedy, hotel property that has passed its prime.  As usual, we were given a free Margarita (politely refused by J and E) and 20 minutes to wander the hotel’s public area.  This was such exciting touring that it was lucky that there were extensive (large) restrooms available to us.  Then, it was back on the bus.  At this point, J and E were a little concerned that our Margarita-fueled fellow passengers might burst into song.  We were spared this entertainment.  Following another two-hours of Mexican bumper tag, the bus returned to the cruise terminal, and we re-boarded the Silver Whisper.

 Acapulco Princess Hotel Lobby Christmas Tree

Another tribute to Chinese Christmas Tree engineering.

Acapulco Princess Swimming Pool and Landscaping.

The "crowd" in the pool says it all about the state of tourism in Acapulco.

Our four-plus hours of touring Acapulco had gained us a few insights about the city:  young people will jump off cliffs if given money; a city where you are rarely out of sight of heavily-armed men is “perfectly safe”; and, you are in Acapulco if you spend four hours on a tour bus for three “free” drinks.

After our return, we had lunch on the pool deck in the hot Mexican sun, and then napped.  We departed Acapulco at 4:00pm bound for Cabo San Lucas on the southern tip of Baja California, Mexico.  Thankfully, all the passengers and crew got back aboard without incident.  In a city as “perfectly safe” as Acapulco, there was a collective sigh of relief.

Since it was New Year’s Eve, the ship had a large dinner/dance party; however, J and E are not much given to such parties, especially “large” ones, so we dined in our suite on pizza (yum) and watched a James Bond movie.  Not a terribly exciting New Year’s Eve, but too much excitement is bad for us seniors.

New Year's Decorations, Main Bar, Silver Whisper

Needless to say, this photo was taken before the celebrations began.