Komodo, Indonesia, October 26, 2011
The big day has finally arrived. The most anticipated and talked over event of the cruise: a visit to Komodo National Park and a game walk to view the Komodo Dragon (Varanus komodoensis). We suspect that a large contingent of the ship's passengers came on this cruise primarily to see the dragons!
There is not a pier on Komodo Island where even a small cruise ship like Silver Shadow can dock. So, it is down to the disembarkation hatch (hole in side of ship) and all aboard one of the ship's tenders (life boats) for the transfer to the island. Arrival on shore is greeted by an amazing number of Indonesian functionaries. All are in uniform and seem to have no immediate purpose, except to wander about and stare officiously into space. We are escorted up the pier and divided into groups of about 25. The theory is that the dragons (who are scent hunters and have very poor eyesight) will think a group of 25 (large blob) smells wonderful but is too large to attack.
Our first impression of Komodo Island is: What happened to the lush tropical forest dripping water and fetid life? Komodo Island, at least the touristed part, is a semi-arid scrub land of open woods (mixed palms and deciduous trees).
Welcome to Komodo National Park
Please Pay Camera Fee BEFORE Being Eaten
We must pay the "camera fee" in cash (US $7.00/camera & US$20/video) before we can proceed on the about 1 mi. dragon walk. The fee is collected by another local functionary and his minions in uniform. More attention is paid to the collection of the camera fee and the counting of the money than any other aspect of visiting Komodo National Park. After the camera fee is all in order, our group is turned over to a park ranger and his two assistants.
The park ranger and his two assistants explain that we are to stay on the stone-edged path, walk in single file, and stay quiet. The ranger and his assistants each carry a 6 foot long forked stick of mango wood as a defense against dragon attack. One of our group, no doubt American, wanted to know who was carrying the shotgun? No shotgun, just forked mango sticks.
Park Ranger and Protection Stick
Off our group goes along the path into the woods. The park ranger and one assistant in front pointing out flora and fauna, and one assistant at the rear along with the Silver Shadow minder. We had hardly walked ten minutes from the pier when who should appear but Mr. Komodo himself. He was walking purposely down the path in the opposite direction.
Komodo on the Path
We moved off the path, the Komodo crossed a small wooden bridge, and he proceeded on his way down the path. All of our group had politely stepped aside so he could take the morning air undisturbed.
Komodo Crosses the Bridge
At this point, one had to wonder if this was the "ringer" lizard, freed from his enclosure nearby so that there was a photo opportunity for the camera-fee paying visitors. It was highly suspicious!
As our merry group proceeded again down the path to our next stop at the waterhole, we saw the lizards' main food source: the Timor deer in large numbers. The deer did not seem to fear humans, even noisy ones. Well, we are small potatoes compared to the real predators in the neighborhood (there are over 1,000 Komodo lizards on the island).
Timor Deer - Lizard Lunch
On arriving at the waterhole, who is basking in the shade of a nearby tree not one but TWO Komodos. At first, they paid almost no attention to us; however, as time went on, they became more agitated, and the larger male began making a low hissing sound. It didn't take him long to make the point that he was not entertaining visitors today.
Komodos at Leisure
I Told You "No Visitors"
We proceed along the path away from the waterhole for another half-mile back to the pier area. It is fortunate that the entire nature walk was about a mile. If it had been any longer, a number or our group would have been left on the path for the lizards (bright sun/95 degF/95% humidity). Considering the mostly bland colors of the lizards and landscape, and the camera fee, we thought you might enjoy something colorful from Komodo Island. There were two choices -- snakes or snails -- we went with a snail.
Colorful Land Snail
Back at the pier, there was the usual selection of handicrafts, t-shirts, etc. But, J had to have his Komodo dragon t-shirt, so after hard bargaining, he only paid twice the cheap ABC Store t-shirt price for his prize. He thinks Cooper will like it for the morning walks. However, no photo is included, because by the time the bargaining had ended, the camera fee had expired. Then, it was all aboard the tender for return to the Silver Shadow and a long, cool shower.
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