French Polynesia – Part 3

January 15, 2013 anchored off Moorea, Society Islands, French Polynesia – Another Day, Another Island

At 6:30am, J was out on deck for his early morning walk and was treated to the Silver Whisper entering the crater-created Cook Bay of Moorea.  Moorea is the sister island to Tahiti, which is the administrative, economic, and cultural center of French Polynesia.  It is the most attractive of the pair, and its steep, volcanic remnants define the landscapes of the South Pacific to many people.

Dawn over Moorea

Entering Cook Bay through Avaroa Pass -- shoaling water close at hand.

Anchoring in the bay, tenders were lowered into the water, and we were allowed to go ashore.  E and J had not made specific tour arrangements.  (Scuba diving with sharks or feeding them for fun just didn’t really seem that enlightening, and playing golf does not seem relaxing in any way.) But, the sky was blue, and there was no sign of gray skies and rain that had been following us since LA.  So, we had our normal leisurely breakfast in the dining room, and about 10:00am, we boarded a tender for the short voyage into the pier at Maharepa.  On shore, we were greeted by a local musical group playing and singing Polynesian songs – it sounded a lot like Hawaii to us.

On the Pier with Local Musicians

Finally, someone has put an old base drum to good use!

Not really having any purpose in mind, we wandered about the pier area looking at offerings of local vendors, but not buying.  Finally, for some exercise and to enjoy the local scenery, we decided to walk up the two-lane road toward the Maharepa shopping center.  We discovered that even a short walk in 90 percent humidity was not so much exercise but an outdoor shower.  Therefore, the walk was very short -- probably no more than a mile -- and we turned around and headed back toward the pier.

A Breadfruit Tree Next to the Road

This is the tree that got Capt. Bligh into so much trouble.  We left it alone.

The Shopping Center?

Turned around and headed back to the pier, even if this wasn’t the shopping center.

Along the way, we stopped for a rest and a chat with our trivial-pursuit partners, Barbara and her husband, Clive.  Seated at a shaded picnic table located between the road and the water, we were afforded a wonderful view of the bay and the surrounding countryside.

Our View from the Picnic Table

No wonder nothing gets done in Polynesia.

After an hour of chatting and resting, we all walked back to the pier and took the tender to the Silver Whisper.

J and E on the Pier at Maharepa

The hats and dark glasses are a must.  Otherwise, how are we going to collect money for the blind?

M/V Silver Whisper at Cook Bay, Moorea

Would London or Michener recognize their paradise?

After returning to the ship, we had a late lunch on deck and watched the sail away.  We were bound for Tahiti (12 miles away), where we docked in Papeete harbor two hours later.

January 15 and 16, 2013 in port, Papeete, Tahiti, Society Islands, French Polynesia – What would Paul Gauguin Do?

About 5:45pm, we were inside the coral reef that surrounds the Island of Tahiti and proceeded to Papeete harbor to dock.  We were moored next to Paul Allen’s private motor yacht, Octopus.  At 220 feet, Octopus is about half the size of Silver Whisper.  Once clearance procedures were completed, a troop (halau) of Tahitian dancers came aboard to entertain us on the pool deck, which was an excellent way to end a day in Polynesia.

Papeete, Tahiti from Seaward

Ah, for the days of empire and glory.  Looks better than Mali.

Paul Allen’s Yacht, “Octopus”

Ernest Hemingway: “The rich are different.”

 

Tahitian Dancers on the Pool Deck

Careful ladies or you will cause heart attacks!

On the next day, while Silver Whisper was provisioning and embarking passengers, we went ashore for a self-conducted tour of Papeete.  Papeete is the capital of French Polynesia, and the only settlement worthy of the description of “city,” with a population of ~200,000.  However, it retains the feel of a small colonial outpost, with its largely wooden structures and relatively narrow streets.  Only the waterfront along the piers has been modernized and converted into a city park.

Pierside Park – Bandstand with Silver Whisper in Background

No band today; plenty of vendors selling local crafts.  Oops, forgot to remove the "Made in China" sticker.

Papeete Pierside Park -- Tiki

In Polynesia, even the Tiki overeat.

Papeete, Tahiti – Rue Colette

Just like it was in colonial days.  Except for the cars.

On Rangiroa, E had purchased a gray, shell and Tahitian pearl necklace.  She soon discovered that she did not have any earrings that went with the necklace.  (This is the jewelry equivalent of “I’ve no shoes to go with this dress.”)  So, it was off to find some matching gray pearl earrings.  In Papeete, this was not difficult, as about every third shop sold Tahitian pearls.  After about an hour of looking and shopping, E found the earrings that (hopefully) matched the necklace, and after some negotiation over price, they were purchased.  All ended well (they matched!).  A short corrective note:  Tahitian pearls are a cultured pearl and are not grown on Tahiti Island but in lagoons of atolls, mostly in the Tuamoto Islands.  Tuamoto pearls just don’t sound as nice as Tahitian pearls, do they?

On the advice of the French lady who sold us the earrings, we adjourned to a nearby patisserie for a very wonderful French pastry and cappuccino.   As with all the really good places to eat in a tourist-thick town, this patisserie (Marquisienne) was not on the tourist map – surprise, surprise!  Of course, the pastries were delicious, and coffee strong.   We were fortified to continue our walking tour.

Our next stop was the Municipal Market, which had sections for local meats, fish, vegetables, and flowers.  There were also soft goods and hard goods for the local shopper, and many, many curios for the tourist.   It was colorful and provided locals and tourists with everything required for daily life.

Papeete Municipal Market

Just like Costco, but with no big box.

Our next stop was the Notre Dame Cathedral, built originally in 1875 and restored in 1987.  (Religion must have gotten off to a slow start in French Polynesia.)  It is one of the most attractive buildings in Papeete.  There was no service in progress (Wednesday), so we could tour and photograph the interior.  The cathedral contains one of the few pipe organs in the South Pacific, and has lovely, stained-glass windows.

Notre Dame Cathedral, Papeete, Tahiti

Even J went in and DID NOT get struck by lightning!

Leaving the Cathedral, we continued our walk around the city on streets with names such as “Rue Marechal Foch,” and “Rue du General de Gaulle.”  Eventually, we crossed Boulevard Pomare and walked along the waterfront, returning to the Silver Whisper for a late lunch and a little lay down.

That evening, the Silver Whisper departed Papeete bound for our final stop in French Polynesia, the island of Bora Bora.