Thursday, February 21, 2013

Wellington & Te Papa Tongarewa


January 27, 2013 in port Wellington, New Zealand – Welcome to Hobbit Land

Silver Shadow docked at Aotea Quay, Port Nicholson (Wellington’s harbor) at 8:00am and caught the 10am shuttle into Brandon Street and Lambton Quay in the Wellington downtown.  Our plan was to visit recently-completed Te Papa Tongarewa – Museum of New Zealand which was in walking distance along the Wellington waterfront.


Wellington, New Zealand and Aotea Quay from Port Nicholson Harbor
Horror of horrors!  Another cruise ship in port!

The sun was shining and making it a wonderful Sunday for an outing.  Large numbers of people were  strolling along the waterfront, or participating in numerous tourist activities – jet skis, sailing, and high diving.  (New Zealanders are an adventuresome lot, with a taste for things like bungee jumping and other suicide-oriented endeavors.)   The waterfront area is under redevelopment, with old go-downs being converted to other uses – art centers.  Some older buildings have been torn down, but buildings of historical, architectural and/or cultural significance are being rehabilitated or maintained.  Wellington has been the capital of New Zealand since 1895.  The lynch pin of this revitalization is the Te Papa Tongarewa – Museum of New Zealand, whose collections are housed in a recently-completed, extremely impressive, modern building

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Converted and Restored Buildings
Buildings of these types make the waterfront area very attractive.


Entrance to Te Papa Tongarewa – Museum of New Zealand
New Zealand’s equivalent of the Smithsonian Institution.

On entering the Te Papa, the local vernacular for the museum, you are greeted by a volunteer.  The volunteer immediately explains that the museum is free of charge, except for traveling special exhibits.  And, that its four-plus floors of exhibits contain natural history, ethnography, historical, and fine art collections.  Needless to say, the museum is huge and cannot be viewed in a single visit.  It houses probably the finest collection of materials on Maori ethnography in the world.  The whole thing is overwhelming, and you must pick a specific collection or part of a collection for viewing.  To consider the alternatives, we went immediately to the coffee shop for a cappuccino.

On the way, we passed a relic of Capt. Cook’s explorations of New Zealand and the Pacific:  A cannon, from the HMS Endeavor, which had to be thrown overboard off New Zealand to free Endeavor from grounding on a reef.  A Capt. Cook Society member, J was fascinated and took MANY pictures of the salvaged cannon.


HMS Endeavor’s Cannon
Maybe five images are a little excessive.

After much debate, we chose to spend most of our time in the museum’s exhibits on immigration to New Zealand.  They traced the history of New Zealand’s European and Asian immigrant population through their artifacts and handicrafts.  The exhibits were extremely well done and illustrated the country’s history from the early 19th until the late 20th century.


Te Papa’s Artifacts of History
Maori war canoes, Endeavor’s anchor, and an early air craft – the stuff of history.

After looking at the exhibits for about two hours, we were saturated and could absorb no more.  Stopping in the museum shop on the way out, J found a t-shirt with a New Zealand Stamp on it and immediately purchased it for an exorbitant amount.  Just what he needs -- another overpriced t-shirt.  He justified it as financially “helping” the museum.  Rationalization is wonderful.

Leaving the museum, we walked back through Wellington’s downtown to reach the shuttle bus stop.  Wellington is another city, like Auckland, with a great diversity of architecture, and we enjoyed seeing the city on-foot.  It took us about two hours to get back to the shuttle bus stop, and we were beginning to feel we might have enjoyed the walking a bit too much.


Wellington’s Varied Architecture
It is good to take building photos from the street when there is no traffic.

We caught an early afternoon shuttle back to the ship in time for a late lunch.  The rest of the day was spent recovering for our extensive walking tour of Wellington.  At 5:30pm, just after that important event, “Team Trivia,” we sailed for Akaro, our first port on the South Island of New Zealand.


Port Nicholson (Maori -- Great Harbor of Tara) from Seaward
Goodbye, Wellington; we’re headed for the South Island.

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